July 10, 2018

How to make an OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with Armhole Princess line? F R E E Pattern

Hello everyone,
I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a stylized an OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with armhole princess line. This pattern was requested by one of the subscribers.

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also a simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree BlouseRaglan Sleeve Saree BlouseBlouse with Basque (Patti)Boat Neck Saree Blouse and Scallop Shaped Neckline.

You can also visit my new YouTube Channel - "Sudha's Apparel Patterns" for more sewing videos. Please Subscribe the Channel if you like it. ☺

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with armhole princess line.

The Blouse pattern has (1) Off-Shoulder, (2) Raglan sleeve and (3) Armhole princess line in Front. This blouse will have a back opening with darts.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylised OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with armhole princess line, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of the blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above the waistline.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.
7. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point. Also called bust height.
8. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collarbone moderately tight.
9. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measuring tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of the arm.
10. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -


0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-14 = 1 cm

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam
Marking of Raglan Piece:-
14-15 = 1/3rd of 13-14
3-16 = 4 to 6 cms
Join 15-16 with line
17 = Midpoint of 15-16
18 = Midpoint of 15-17
19 = Midpoint of 16-17
Draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm at point 18 & 19 (as shown in above image).
Draw raglan sleeve curve from 15-17-16 passing over both perpendiculars of 0.5 cm (refer image).

Marking of Off-Shoulder:-
14-20 = 10 cms
12-21 = 3 to 4 cms
Join 20-21 with a curve (refer above image)
*Trace and separate raglan piece and Back piece with the dart as shown in above image.

FRONT -
STEP- 1
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 & 1-7 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart -
2-8 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
8-9 = 2 cms & 8-10 = 2 cms (dart width)
8-11 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 9-11-10 in slant line for dart

0-12 & 3-13 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
12-13 = Join in straight line
12-14 = Down by 2 cms
13-15 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-16 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-17 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm

Join 16-17 for Neck curve
4-15-14 for Arm curve
4-7-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -
4-20 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
18-19 = 2 cms (dart width)
19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19
20-21 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 18-21-19 in slant line for dart

- Draw a straight line from 11 up towards shoulder to mark 22 (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
22-23 = Mark shoulder to bust point measurement.
23-24 = Mark 1/2 distance between bust point by drawing a horizontal line towards centre front.

Armhole Dart marking -
4-25 = 1/3rd of 4-14
(*measure front armhole curve with measure tape & whatever is "x" measurement, take its 1/3rd)
{for example; if front armhole is 15 cms, then it's 1/3rd will be 5 cms}
- Join 25-23 with a line to mark armhole dart.
- Mark midpoint on this slant line & draw perpendicular of 1 cm on it (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
- Draw a curve from 25 to 23 passing through this perpendicular. The red curve marked in STEP-1 is armhole dart.

STEP - 2
Marking of Armhole Princess Line:-
- Cut on the curve of 25-23 & fold side seam dart (i.e. 18-21-19).
  *When side seam dart is folded, armhole dart slit will open.
STEP - 3
- Extend waist dart till bust point. i.e. join 9-23 and 10-23' to form princess line.

STEP - 4
- Mark & trace armhole princess line pieces i.e.
For Side panel - trace 4-25-23-9-6-4 and
For Centre Panel - trace 25'-14-16-17-2-10-23'-25'.

 
STEP - 5
Marking of Raglan Piece:-
17-26 = 1/3rd of 16-17
4-27 = 4 to 6 cms
Join 26-27 with line
28 = Midpoint of 26-27
29 = Midpoint of 26-28
30 = Midpoint of 27-28
Draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm at point 29 & 30 (as shown in above image).
Draw raglan sleeve curve from 26-28-27 passing over both perpendiculars of 0.5 cm (refer image).

STEP - 6
Marking of Off-Shoulder:-
17-32 = 10 cms
14-31 = 3 to 4 cms
Join 31-32 with a curve (refer above image)
STEP - 7
*Trace & separate raglan piece and Front pieces with armhole princess line as shown in the above image.

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Making of Raglan Sleeve:-
- To make Raglan sleeve, take raglan pieces of Front and Back (as shown in the above image) and place them above sleeve draft (STEP-3) as shown in below image.
- Place both raglan pieces of Front & Back 3 to 4 cms away from the centre of the sleeve curve (refer below image).
- Join both ends of 3 to 4 cms by a slight curve (as shown in below image)
- Armhole (AH) of raglan pieces should face Sleeve curve.

*******************
Final Pieces of OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with Armhole Princess line
*******************


The fabric used:- For making this style of saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using the basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at a right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.

*Do try this tricky yet beautiful pattern and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips/hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

May 3, 2018

How to make a SCALLOP shaped Neckline Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern - Designer Saree Blouse

Scalloped Neckline Saree Blouse
Hello everyone,

Before I begin today's post, I would like to thank all the lovely subscribers of this blog who have joined the free Newsletter of my blog. I hope you all are notified every time I post an article about different garment patterns.🙏

With this post, I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a stylized deep neckline (scallop shaped) saree blouse. This pattern was requested by one of the subscribers who had sent me below given design for reference.
Subscriber requested pattern
Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also a simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree BlouseRaglan Sleeve Saree BlouseBlouse with Basque (Patti) and Boat Neck Saree Blouse.

You can also visit my new YouTube Channel - "Sudha's Apparel Patterns" for more sewing videos. Please Subscribe the Channel if you like it. ☺

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another Scalloped shaped Deep Neck Saree Blouse.

This deep neckline saree blouse will have only big waist dart in front and basic waist dart at back. You can give any neckline shape of your choice but I have given a slightly wavy scalloped shape to both Front and Back neckline. I have also given slightly wavy shape to the hemline of blouse but you may keep it basic. This blouse will have a back opening.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylised Deep Neck Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of the blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above the waistline.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.
7. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point. Also called bust height.
8. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collarbone moderately tight.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
Join 12-13 with line
12-14 = 3 cms Shoulder
12-3 for Arm curve
3-5 for Side seam

Scallop neckline shaping:
1-15 = 5 cms (button stand)
Join 14-15 with a slight curve
Draw scallop design for neckline using this slight curve marked from 14-15 as a baseline.

FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Join 4-6 for Side seam

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
7-8 = Join in straight line
7-9 = Down by 2 cms
8-10 = Up by 2.5 cms
Join 4-10-9 for Arm curve
0-11 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
Join 9-11 with line
9-12 = 3 cms Shoulder
0-13 = 24 cms Neck depth or as desired

Scallop neckline shaping:
Join 12-13 with a slight curve
Draw scallop design for neckline using this slight curve marked from 12-13 as a baseline.

Waist Dart -
2-14 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
14-15 = 2.5 cms & 15-16 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
11-17 = Shoulder to bust point
Join 16-17-14 in slant line for dart

The fabric used:- For making a Deep Neck saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using the basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at the right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.

*Once you are successfully making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like printed/ embroidered/ checkered/striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given on the blog. Any tips/hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

March 10, 2018

How to make Boat Neck Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern

Hello everyone,
I am back with yet another pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a blouse with Boat Neckline. Before I begin the post, I would like to thank one of the subscribers for sending in the request of demonstrating this pattern in my blog. Thank you. 🙏

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also a simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree BlouseRaglan Sleeve Saree Blouse and Blouse with Basque (Patti).

You can also visit my new YouTube Channel"Sudha's Apparel Patterns" for more sewing videos. Please Subscribe the Channel if you like it. ☺

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of Boat Neck Saree Blouse.

According to Wikipedia, A boat neck also called a bateau neck or Sabrina neckline is a wide neckline that runs horizontally, front and back, almost to the shoulder points, across the collarbone. It is traditionally used in nautically inspired sweaters and knitwear but is also featured in more elegant cocktail dresses and eveningwear. 
This neckline pattern is also widely used for various Saree blouses, Kurtis etc.

Boat neckline is apt for ladies with narrow shoulders and low bust line. It's a high neck design blouse which has a stylish back having simple eyehole design. This neckline creates an illusion of a fuller bust line. You may combine this incredibly sophisticated high neckline blouse with any cotton/silk sarees or any one from your formal collection.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a Boat Neck Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of the blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above the waistline.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measuring tape from neck over the shoulder to 2-3 cms above the elbow.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collarbone moderately tight.
9. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
10-13 = 5 cms (shoulder width)
Join 12-13 for Shoulder
0-14 = 3 cms (neck depth)
Join 13-14 for Boat Neck curve (*should not be deep curve unlike round neckline)
12-3 for Arm curve
3-5 for Side seam

For Eyehole shaping:--
2-14 = 2-15
2-16 = 4 to 5 cms
Join 14-16-15 with a slight curve making eyehole shaping

*This blouse will have a back opening with button at 14 and between 1-15.*
*To have a well-defined neckline, stitch this neckline and eyehole shaping using fusible canvas/buckram .*
* Instead of eyehole shaping you can also style the blouse back with leaf shape/round/diamond shape.

FRONT -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5  =  Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms
Waist Dart -
2-7 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
7-8 = 4 cms (dart width)
8-9 = Midpoint of 7-8
9-10 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 8-10-7 in slant line for dart

0-11 & 3-12 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
11-12 = Join in straight line
11-13 = Down by 2 cms
12-14 = Up by 2.5 cms
11-15 = 5 cms (shoulder width)
Join 13-15 for Shoulder
0-16 = Neck depth 5 cms (if you wish to hide collar bone) &/or 7 cms (if you wish to show collar bone)
Join 15-16 for Boat Neck curve (*should not be deep curve unlike round neckline)
4-14-13 for Arm curve
4-6 for Side seam
Side seam Dart -
4-17 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
17-18 = 2 cms (dart width)
18-19 = Midpoint of 18-19
19-20 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 17-20-18 in slant line for dart
Centre Front Dart -
3-21 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
21-22 = 1.5 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 21-24-22 in slant line for dart

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Fabric used:- For making a Boat Neck saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using a basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at a right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like printed/ embroidered/ checkered/striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this pattern or any other post/tutorial given on the blog. Any tips/hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

January 24, 2018

How to make Simple Saree Blouse with Basque (patti)? FREE Pattern

In my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree Blouse and Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse.
In this post, I will explain yet another simple and basic saree blouse pattern which was requested by one of the follower. The pattern is of Basic Saree Blouse with Basque (patti).

So let's start with it's step-wise pattern making.


* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a basic saree blouse with basque, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric.

To make a Saree Blouse with Basque (patti) and sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam


FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms

0-14 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-18 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-19 = 1/10 Round Bust (neck depth)

14-16 = 2 cms
15-17 = 2.5 cms

Join 18-19 for Neck curve
4-17-16 for Arm curve
16-18 for Shoulder
4-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -
4-20 = 1/16 Round Bust
20-21 = 2 cms (dart width)
21-22 = Midpoint of 20-21
22-23 = 1/8 Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 20-23-21 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -
3-24 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
24-25 = 2 cms (dart width)
25-26 = Midpoint of 24-25
26-27 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 24-27-25 in slant line for dart

Basque -
2-7 = 1/10 Round Bust
2-8 =  1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
8-9 = 1/16 Round Bust
7-9 = Join with slight curve line as shown

Waist Dart -
7-10 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
10-11 = 4 cms (dart width)
10-12 = Midpoint of 10-11
12-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 10-13-11 in slant line for dart

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

* It is a very basic blouse pattern with sleeve. However, once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.☺


I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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**********************

January 17, 2018

How to make a Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern

Raglan sleeve style of saree blouse does not have sleeves attached to arm curve unlike other basic saree blouses. These sleeves are attached to front and back of blouse starting either from 1/3rd or half of neckline shape to either 1/3rd or below armhole curve. [According to Wikipedia, the word 'Raglan sleeve' is named after Lord Raglan, who is said to have worn a coat with this style of sleeve after the loss of his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. The Raglan sleeve was invented by a coat producer Aquascutum for Lord Raglan to allow him room to use his sword in battle.] 


Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree Blouse and Stand "V" Saree Blouse.

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.


Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of Drafting


BACK -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms

Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cm (neck depth)
10-13 = 0.5 cm
11-14 = 1/10 Round Bust (for Raglan shaping)
0-15 = Sleeve length (including shoulder) + 1 cm
11-16 = Draw line by keeping ruler / scale on 11-13 [refer image]
16-17 = 1/2 Round arm + 2 cms
3-14 = Join points with slant line [refer image]
3-18 = 1/3rd of 3-14
18-19 = up by 2 cms
18-20 = down by 2 cms
3-21 = 2 cms on slant line [refer image]
21-22 = up by 2 cms
21-23 = down by 2 cms

For Raglan Sleeve -
Join 14-19-21-23 with curve (refer image);
23-17 with slight curve shaping;

For Back of blouse -
Join 14-20-21-22 with curve (refer image);
22-3-5 for side seam



FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 5 cms

0-7 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-8 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust (neck depth)
9-10 = 1/10 Round Bust (for Raglan shaping)
7-11 = 0.5 cm
0-12 = Sleeve length (including shoulder) + 1 cm
8-13 = Draw line by keeping ruler / scale on 8-11 [refer image]
13-14 = 1/2 Round arm + 2 cms
10-4 = Join points with slant line [refer image]
4-15 = 1/3rd of 4-10
15-16 = up by 2.5 cms
15-17 = down by 2.5 cms
4-18 = 2 cms on slant line [refer image]
18-19 = up by 2 cms
18-20 = down by 2 cms

For Raglan Sleeve -
Join 10-16-18-20 with curve (refer image);
20-14 with slight curve shaping;

For Front of blouse -
Join 10-17-18-20 with curve (refer image);
19-4-6 for side seam

Side seam Dart -
5-21 = 1/16 Round Bust
21-22 = 2 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/8 Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 21-24-22 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -
3-25 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
25-26 = 2 cms (dart width)
26-27 = Midpoint of 25-26
27-28 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 25-28-26 in slant line for dart

Basque -
2-29 = 1/10 Round Bust
2-30 =  1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
30-31 = 1/16 Round Bust
29-31 = Join with slight curve line as shown

Waist Dart -
29-32 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
32-33 = 4 cms (dart width)
33-34 = Midpoint of 32-33
34-35 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 32-35-33 in slant line for dart

Raglan Sleeve tracing -
  1. For making Raglan sleeve draft trace following pieces from Front and Back draft given above:-from Back draft trace 11-14-23-17-16-11 & from Front draft trace 8-10-20-14-13-8
  2. To complete the Raglan sleeve pattern, keep these traced pieces of Front & Back of sleeve on either sides of a straight line as shown in below image.

- Along with the Raglan sleeve pattern, also trace Back draft of blouse, Front draft of blouse and Basque piece separately before placement on fabric as shown in below image.
Fabric used:- For making a Raglan sleeve blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are beginner, prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this style of blouse.

You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with different types of necklines; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

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I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!
I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

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