14 September 2016

Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's wear {Two Darts}

This post is a continuation where I will explain how to transfer only shoulder dart of Basic bodice Front to get neckline, centre front horizontal, side seam oblique or armhole dart. As the waist dart of Basic bodice Front is not transferred, we have two darts. 


All single darts end exactly at bust point where as two or more darts end 2 cms. away from bust point.
Similar to Single darts, for this process as well you have to use Basic Bodice Sloper (till waist).
TWO DARTS
1. Neckline & Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line by going 1/3rd on neckline at neckline-centre front intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit neckline dart.
Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.
Neckline & Waist Dart
----------------------------
2. Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line by going perpendicular to centre front line.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit centre front horizontal dart.
Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.
Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart
----------------------------
3. Side seam oblique & Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line by 3-8 cms from armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit side seam oblique dart.
Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.
Side seam Oblique & Waist Dart
----------------------------
4. Armhole & Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line by  going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit armhole dart.
Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.
Armhole & Waist Dart
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