March 10, 2018

How to make Boat Neck Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern

Hello everyone,
I am back with yet another pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a blouse with Boat Neckline. Before I begin the post, I would like to thank one of the subscribers for sending in the request of demonstrating this pattern in my blog. Thank you. 🙏

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also a simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree BlouseRaglan Sleeve Saree Blouse and Blouse with Basque (Patti).

You can also visit my new YouTube Channel"Sudha's Apparel Patterns" for more sewing videos. Please Subscribe the Channel if you like it. ☺

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of Boat Neck Saree Blouse.

According to Wikipedia, A boat neck also called a bateau neck or Sabrina neckline is a wide neckline that runs horizontally, front and back, almost to the shoulder points, across the collarbone. It is traditionally used in nautically inspired sweaters and knitwear but is also featured in more elegant cocktail dresses and eveningwear. 
This neckline pattern is also widely used for various Saree blouses, Kurtis etc.

Boat neckline is apt for ladies with narrow shoulders and low bust line. It's a high neck design blouse which has a stylish back having simple eyehole design. This neckline creates an illusion of a fuller bust line. You may combine this incredibly sophisticated high neckline blouse with any cotton/silk sarees or any one from your formal collection.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a Boat Neck Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of the blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above the waistline.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measuring tape from neck over the shoulder to 2-3 cms above the elbow.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collarbone moderately tight.
9. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
10-13 = 5 cms (shoulder width)
Join 12-13 for Shoulder
0-14 = 3 cms (neck depth)
Join 13-14 for Boat Neck curve (*should not be deep curve unlike round neckline)
12-3 for Arm curve
3-5 for Side seam

For Eyehole shaping:--
2-14 = 2-15
2-16 = 4 to 5 cms
Join 14-16-15 with a slight curve making eyehole shaping

*This blouse will have a back opening with button at 14 and between 1-15.*
*To have a well-defined neckline, stitch this neckline and eyehole shaping using fusible canvas/buckram .*
* Instead of eyehole shaping you can also style the blouse back with leaf shape/round/diamond shape.

FRONT -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5  =  Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms
Waist Dart -
2-7 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
7-8 = 4 cms (dart width)
8-9 = Midpoint of 7-8
9-10 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 8-10-7 in slant line for dart

0-11 & 3-12 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
11-12 = Join in straight line
11-13 = Down by 2 cms
12-14 = Up by 2.5 cms
11-15 = 5 cms (shoulder width)
Join 13-15 for Shoulder
0-16 = Neck depth 5 cms (if you wish to hide collar bone) &/or 7 cms (if you wish to show collar bone)
Join 15-16 for Boat Neck curve (*should not be deep curve unlike round neckline)
4-14-13 for Arm curve
4-6 for Side seam
Side seam Dart -
4-17 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
17-18 = 2 cms (dart width)
18-19 = Midpoint of 18-19
19-20 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 17-20-18 in slant line for dart
Centre Front Dart -
3-21 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
21-22 = 1.5 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 21-24-22 in slant line for dart

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Fabric used:- For making a Boat Neck saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using a basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at a right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like printed/ embroidered/ checkered/striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

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I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this pattern or any other post/tutorial given on the blog. Any tips/hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

5 comments:

  1. You can buy Indian kurtis online in USA from Karmaplace where you get a wide variety of designer kurtis, cotton

    ReplyDelete
  2. Positive site, where did u come up with the information on this posting?I have read a few of the articles on your website now, and I really like your style. Thanks a million and please keep up the effective work. Boat Repairs

    ReplyDelete
  3. hi ..thanx for sharing ! i have a doubt..i have seen some patterns with front boat neck,with deep back neck.can u please tell how to do that.and those patterns don't have a dori to hold the sleeves from falling off the shoulders.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, you may achieve a deep back neck without dori by using a stiff fusable canvas (bakram) to finish the neckline. Also you have to be very accurate when taking the measurements and add less ease while making the pattern. Hope this helps. Happy sewing.

      Delete
  4. wow So great Your Post. thanks for sharing his interesting post.
    Check New Blouse Designs - latest saree designs

    ReplyDelete

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

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