Hope you all enjoyed my earlier post on High Neck Saree Blouse with armhole princess line. In this post, I will be sharing yet another style of saree blouse pattern named Stand "V" blouse.
In this style of saree blouse, the back of blouse neckline is cut from nape of back (i.e. back neck bone). Front of blouse neckline is given a "V" shape and a stand piece is stitched around the neck, hence the name, "Stand 'V' Blouse". I have combined this pattern with Mutton Puff sleeve style.
Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless Blouse, Basic Saree Blouse with Sleeve, Double Katori Blouse, One Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse, Saree Blouse with Back Smocking and High Neck Saree Blouse.
So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized Stand "V" Saree Blouse.
* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!
* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!
To make a stylized Stand "V" Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.
Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
Neckline marking -
0-15 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1.5 cms
0-1 = 4 cms
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1 cm
Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam
FRONT -
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart -
2-7 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
7-8 = 4 cms (dart width)
7-9 = Midpoint of 7-8
7-9 = Midpoint of 7-8
9-10 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 8-10-7 in slant line for dart
0-11 & 3-12 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
11-12 = Join in straight line
11-13 = Down by 2 cms
12-14 = Up by 2.5 cms
Neckline marking -
0-15 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1.5 cms
15-16 = 1 cm towards left
16-17 = 4 cms towards right (stand piece)
17-18 = 1/10 Round Bust (go slant up)
16-19 = 1/10 Round Bust (parallel to 17-18)
16-17 = 4 cms towards right (stand piece)
17-18 = 1/10 Round Bust (go slant up)
16-19 = 1/10 Round Bust (parallel to 17-18)
3-20 = Down by 3 cms
Join 20-17-18 to mark 'V' neck shape
Join 13-16 for Shoulder
Join 13-16 for Shoulder
Join 4-14-13 for Arm curve &
Join 4-6 for Side seam
Side seam Dart -
4-21 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
21-22 = 2 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 21-24-22 in slant line for dart
Centre Front Dart -
3-25 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
Centre Front Dart -
3-25 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
25-26 = 2 cms (dart width)
26-27 = Midpoint of 25-26
27-28 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 25-28-26 in slant line for dart
MUTTON PUFF SLEEVE -
1-2 = Sleeve length + 1 cm
2-3 = 4 cms (sleeve hem shaping)
0-4 = 1/5 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 4-5 and 2-5 as shown in image
1-6 draw line parallel to 0-4
6-7 = 1/10 Round Chest + 2 cms
2-8 = 1/2 Round Arm + 6 cms
0-7 = Join with slant line
0-9 = 1/4 of 0-7
7-10 = 1/4 of 0-7
10-11 = 2 cms perpendicular
9-12 = 3 cms perpendicular
7-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-12-13-7 for back sleeve curve &
Join 0-11-13 for front sleeve curve
Join 8-13 for sleeve side seam
Dart on sleeve hem -
3-14 = 1cm
14-15 = 1.5 cms
15-16 = 2 cms
16-17 = Midpoint of 15-16
3-18 = 1/10 Round Bust
17-19 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1cm
Join 15-19-16 to form a dart &
Join 14-18 to form a dart
Fabric used:- For making a Stand "V" saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.
Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.
*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)
I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
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Happy Sewing!
Thank you so much for V-neck choli draft. Explanation is so clear.
ReplyDeleteThank you
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