8 August 2017

Sari Blouse with back Smocking - FREE Pattern

Blouse with back Smocking
In my previous post, I had explained pattern making and stitching of Sun-Rays Neckline Sari Blouse. In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a Sari Blouse with Smocking (fine gathers) done at centre of back. This style of designer sari blouse has round neckline in Front and square neckline at Back. Fine back gathers are combined with Puffed sleeves to enhance the final look of this style of sari blouse.

Fabric used:- For making a Back centre smocked blouse with puffed sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also experiment with different combinations of fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless Blouse, Basic Saree Blouse with Sleeve, Double Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and Sun-Rays Neckline Sari Blouse.


So let's start with step-wise pattern making of Back smocked blouse with Puffed sleeves. In this post I have explained how to make Front draft with round neckline & darts, Back draft with smocking & darts and Puffed sleeve pattern.

To make a Back smocked blouse with Puffed sleeves, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
Blouse with back Smocking
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -
Blouse with back Smocking
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4.5 cms
Waist Dart - 
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line to form dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust
14-15 = 1/10 Round Bust - 0.5 cm
Join 13-15-14 to make Square shape neck
Join
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam
For Back Smocking (fine gathers)
15-16 = Measurement of 14-15 X 4
1-17 = 14-16
Join 16-17

FRONT -
Blouse with back Smocking
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms
Waist Dart -
2-7 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
7-8 = 4 cms (dart width)
8-9 = Midpoint of 7-8
9-10 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 8-10-7
0-11 & 3-12 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
11-12 = Join in straight line
11-13 = Down by 2 cms
12-14 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-15 = 1/10 Round Bust
3-16 = 2 cms (or neck depth as required)
Join 15-16 for Neck curve (shape neckline as desired)
4-14-13 for Arm curve
4-6 for Side seam
Side seam Dart -
4-17 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
17-18 = 2 cms (dart width)
18-19 = Midpoint of 18-19
19-20 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 17-20-18
Centre Front Dart -
3-21 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
21-22 = 1.5 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 21-24-22

PUFFED SLEEVE -
Blouse with back Smocking
0-1 = 2 cms
1-2 = Sleeve length - 1 cm
0-3 & 2-4 = 10 cms (for gathers)
3-4  = Draw straight line
3-5 & 4-6 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
5-6  = Draw straight line
1-7 = Join points
7-8 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1.5 cms
3-8 = Join points
3-9 = 1/4 of 3-8
8-10 = 1/4 of 3-8
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 1.5 cms
8-13 = 1.5 cms
6-14 = 1.5 cms
14-15 = 1 cm
Join 3-12-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 3-9-11-13 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 8-15 for Sleeve side seam
Join 4-15 for Sleeve hem shaping

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

* Once you are successful making this style of blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try making this blouse style pattern and let me know in the comments box below.☺

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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Take care & Happy Sewing!
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