January 24, 2018

How to make Simple Saree Blouse with Basque (patti)? FREE Pattern

In my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree Blouse and Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse.
In this post, I will explain yet another simple and basic saree blouse pattern which was requested by one of the follower. The pattern is of Basic Saree Blouse with Basque (patti).

So let's start with it's step-wise pattern making.


* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a basic saree blouse with basque, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric.

To make a Saree Blouse with Basque (patti) and sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam


FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms

0-14 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-18 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-19 = 1/10 Round Bust (neck depth)

14-16 = 2 cms
15-17 = 2.5 cms

Join 18-19 for Neck curve
4-17-16 for Arm curve
16-18 for Shoulder
4-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -
4-20 = 1/16 Round Bust
20-21 = 2 cms (dart width)
21-22 = Midpoint of 20-21
22-23 = 1/8 Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 20-23-21 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -
3-24 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
24-25 = 2 cms (dart width)
25-26 = Midpoint of 24-25
26-27 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 24-27-25 in slant line for dart

Basque -
2-7 = 1/10 Round Bust
2-8 =  1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
8-9 = 1/16 Round Bust
7-9 = Join with slight curve line as shown

Waist Dart -
7-10 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
10-11 = 4 cms (dart width)
10-12 = Midpoint of 10-11
12-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 10-13-11 in slant line for dart

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

* It is a very basic blouse pattern with sleeve. However, once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.☺


I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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