January 17, 2018

How to make a Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern

Raglan sleeve style of saree blouse does not have sleeves attached to arm curve unlike other basic saree blouses. These sleeves are attached to front and back of blouse starting either from 1/3rd or half of neckline shape to either 1/3rd or below armhole curve. [According to Wikipedia, the word 'Raglan sleeve' is named after Lord Raglan, who is said to have worn a coat with this style of sleeve after the loss of his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. The Raglan sleeve was invented by a coat producer Aquascutum for Lord Raglan to allow him room to use his sword in battle.] 


Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree Blouse and Stand "V" Saree Blouse.

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.


Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of Drafting


BACK -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms

Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cm (neck depth)
10-13 = 0.5 cm
11-14 = 1/10 Round Bust (for Raglan shaping)
0-15 = Sleeve length (including shoulder) + 1 cm
11-16 = Draw line by keeping ruler / scale on 11-13 [refer image]
16-17 = 1/2 Round arm + 2 cms
3-14 = Join points with slant line [refer image]
3-18 = 1/3rd of 3-14
18-19 = up by 2 cms
18-20 = down by 2 cms
3-21 = 2 cms on slant line [refer image]
21-22 = up by 2 cms
21-23 = down by 2 cms

For Raglan Sleeve -
Join 14-19-21-23 with curve (refer image);
23-17 with slight curve shaping;

For Back of blouse -
Join 14-20-21-22 with curve (refer image);
22-3-5 for side seam



FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 5 cms

0-7 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-8 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust (neck depth)
9-10 = 1/10 Round Bust (for Raglan shaping)
7-11 = 0.5 cm
0-12 = Sleeve length (including shoulder) + 1 cm
8-13 = Draw line by keeping ruler / scale on 8-11 [refer image]
13-14 = 1/2 Round arm + 2 cms
10-4 = Join points with slant line [refer image]
4-15 = 1/3rd of 4-10
15-16 = up by 2.5 cms
15-17 = down by 2.5 cms
4-18 = 2 cms on slant line [refer image]
18-19 = up by 2 cms
18-20 = down by 2 cms

For Raglan Sleeve -
Join 10-16-18-20 with curve (refer image);
20-14 with slight curve shaping;

For Front of blouse -
Join 10-17-18-20 with curve (refer image);
19-4-6 for side seam

Side seam Dart -
5-21 = 1/16 Round Bust
21-22 = 2 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/8 Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 21-24-22 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -
3-25 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
25-26 = 2 cms (dart width)
26-27 = Midpoint of 25-26
27-28 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 25-28-26 in slant line for dart

Basque -
2-29 = 1/10 Round Bust
2-30 =  1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
30-31 = 1/16 Round Bust
29-31 = Join with slight curve line as shown

Waist Dart -
29-32 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
32-33 = 4 cms (dart width)
33-34 = Midpoint of 32-33
34-35 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 32-35-33 in slant line for dart

Raglan Sleeve tracing -
  1. For making Raglan sleeve draft trace following pieces from Front and Back draft given above:-from Back draft trace 11-14-23-17-16-11 & from Front draft trace 8-10-20-14-13-8
  2. To complete the Raglan sleeve pattern, keep these traced pieces of Front & Back of sleeve on either sides of a straight line as shown in below image.

- Along with the Raglan sleeve pattern, also trace Back draft of blouse, Front draft of blouse and Basque piece separately before placement on fabric as shown in below image.
Fabric used:- For making a Raglan sleeve blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are beginner, prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this style of blouse.

You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with different types of necklines; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a stylized blouse pattern.
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Happy Sewing!

2 comments:

  1. It was explained so nicely to make raglan sleeve saree blouse. You can view various designer sarees online at factory price from Shopkio India

    ReplyDelete
  2. Can u explain how can we make deep or open neck lines say 7 to 9 inches depth in raglan saree blouse?

    ReplyDelete

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

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