August 15, 2016

Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts

There are various ways / methods of making a basic bodice for a women's wear. Some have shoulder dart and waist dart in Front and only waist dart in Back OR only big waist dart in Front and waist dart in Back OR shoulder and waist dart in Front and also in Back etc. These basic darts help to eliminate the extra ease of the garment making it fall smoothly on the body contours.

On the other hand, there are Basic Bodice without any darts. However, since the extra ease is not eliminated we can see lot of crease lines at armhole, neckline, side seams of such garments.

In this post, I have made a basic bodice which has helped me to get a proper fit eliminating the extra ease / creases on my garment. I have made this basic bodice by following "IL Modellismo, the pattern making book". However, I have added few markings wherever necessary (according to me). This basic bodice is with shoulder dart and waist dart in Front and waist dart in Back. I have taken body measurements in 'centimeters' when I made below given basic bodice pattern. Though if you already have / follow a basic bodice pattern (either in inches or centimeters) that is easier to make and moreover gives you best bodice fit, I suggest you to stick to it.☺

Before, starting with making this Basic Bodice, do not forget to make a list in your sewing book of all your personal body measurements. You require the following measurements (in centimeters):- Height (from head to floor), Size (1/2 Round Chest), Round Bust, Round Waist, Shoulder Width, Back Waist Length, Front Waist Length, Bust Height and Breast Distance.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

You can refer to my previous post which explains in detail "how to take body measurements".
Some Tip: Best way to make this bodice quickly is by following below given steps,do all the calculations first, write them next to each step and then start making the bodice pattern.
Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts
BACK
Begin with top left corner of a square. This is point A.
A-B = 1/24 size + 0.2 cm. (back neckline)
* Size means 1/2 Round Chest. For example; if Round Chest is 88 cms., then Size is 44 cms.
A-B1 = Square down 4.5 cms.
A-C = Armhole depth measurement = 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease allowance
(*The ease allowance 1.7 cms. may vary; it can be increased to ease movement and add fullness to the sleeve or even decreased according to the garment style line.)
* Armhole depth measurement means Arm circumference/ Round arm / Scye depth. For this pattern it is calculated using a formula (i.e. 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease) and not measured on body.
A-D = Back Waist length
A-G = 1/6 size. With the curve join points G-B for the neck curve
A-H = 1/2 back width (i.e. shoulder width)
C-C1 = 1/4 Round Bust – 1 cm + 2 cms ease allowance
D-D1 = 1/4 Round Waist – 1 cm + 3 cms. (Dart) + 2 cms ease allowance.
Join points C1-D1 (this is side seam)
H-I = Perpendicular to C-C1, same measurement as A-C
H-L = Square down 4.5 cms on line of H-I, same as A-B1. Join B1-L
B1-L1 = 1/2 back shoulder width. Join points G-L1 to create shoulder length.
I-M = Square up 5 cms and square right 0.3 cm; with a curve join points L1-M-C1 to draw the armhole
Dart marking:
D-R = 1/2 of D-D1
R-R1 = Draw perpendicular from R to mark R1 on line of C-C1
R-R2 = Square up 14 cm on R-R1
R-R3 = R-R4 = 1.5 cms. Join points R3-R2-R4 to mark dart.

FRONT
Begin with top right corner of a square. This is point A1.
A1-C3 = Armhole depth measurement = 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease allowance
(*The ease allowance 1.7 cms. may vary; it can be increased to ease movement and add fullness to the sleeve or even decreased according to the garment style line.)
A1-D3 = Back Waist length
D3-A2 = Front Waist length
A2-B2 = 1/6 size + 1 cm. (neckline depth)
A2-G4 = 1/6 size. With the curve join points G4-B2 (front neckline)
A2-H1 = 1/2 back width – 1cm
C3-C2 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms ease allowance
D3-D2 = 1/4 Round Waist + 3 cms. (Dart) + 2 cms ease allowance. Join points C2-D2 (side seam)
H1-I1 = Perpendicular to C3-C2, same measurement as A2-C3
H1-L4 = Square down 7.5 cms on line of H1-I1
G4-L5 = Measure the shoulder length G-L1 on back bodice. Draw G4-L5 left to L4.
*Front and back shoulder length should be same.
A2-N = Bust height
N-N1 = 1/2 breast distance
G4-G1 = Starting at point G4 move to the left towards L5 by 1/10 size + 0.5 cm.
G1-G2 = Square up 1.6 cms on right angles at G1 on the shoulder line to mark G2.
Join to points G2- G4.
G2-N1 = Join with a straight line to the bust point
N1-N2 = Square up 7.5 cms on line of G2-N1 and move left 2 cms at right angles to the dart line and mark point N3.
G3-N1 = Measure G2-N1 and use this measurement to draw a line from N1 up to G3 passing through N3 so as to complete the dart. Dart legs are always the same length.
G3-L2 = G-L1 (back shoulder length) – G4-G2.
Make perpendicular of G3-L2 to dart line of G3-N1. Join G3-G2 to mark shoulder dart.
I1-M2 = Square up 5 cms on line of H1-I1
M2-M1 = Move left 2 cms. (This measurement varies according to the dart depth)
With a curve join points L2-M1-C2 to draw the armhole
Dart marking:
D3-R5 = Equal length of N-N1
R5-R6 = Draw perpendicular to D2-D3. From point N1 square down 2 cms. to mark R6
R-5R8 = R5-R7 = 1.5 cms. Join points R5-R6-R7-R8 to mark dart.
Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts
I know there are a lot of markings :) but if you follow the sequence /steps properly am sure you will get a perfect fit of basic bodice using your personal measurement chart.
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Some Tip: *Once your Basic Bodice is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching this pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric before you proceed to use this bodice as a base for all your future garment patterns.*

Just place & cut the bodice pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping the centre back & centre front on fold and seam allowance of 1 cm. at neckline, shoulder, armhole & side seam; 

stitch all the darts (i.e. 2 shoulder darts and 4 waist darts of both front & back);
stitch any one side shoulder & side seam, wear this rough stitched pattern over your under garment and check its fitting. 
You can temporarily pin the other side unstitched shoulder and side seam.

*Best fit of the basic bodice is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern and both shoulder darts and waist darts are ending at least 2 cms. away from the bust points.*


I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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