22 August 2016

Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts

The Basic Skirt draft of women's wear explained in this post has two waist darts in Front and two at Back. These darts eliminate the extra ease / fullness of fabric and help to drape the fabric crease free on waist to hip section. 

To make this draft you require following measurements (in centimeters):- Round waist, Round hip, Waist to Hip and Waist to knee. You can refer to my previous post which explains in detail how to take body measurements in women's wear

Some Tip: Best way to make this bodice quickly is by following below given steps,do all the calculations first, write them next to each step and then start making the bodice pattern.
Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts
BACK:
Square down and right to 0.
0-1 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across
0-2 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across
2-3 = 1/4 Round hip + 1.5 cms.
0-4 & 1-5 = Same measurement as 2-3, square across each. Join 4-3-5 with straight line.
0-6 = 1/4 Round waist + 1 cm.
6-7 =  move up by 1 cm., join 0 and 7 with a curve (see image)
Join 6-3 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)
5-8 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)
Join 6-3-8 for side seam.
Dark Marking:
18 = Mark midpoint of 0-7, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.
Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 18. 

FRONT:
Square down and left to 9.
9-10 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across
9-11 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across
11-12 = 1/4 Round hip + 2 cms.
9-13 & 10-14 = Same measurement as 11-12, square across each. Join 13-12-14 with straight line.
9-15 = 1/4 Round waist + 1.5 cms.
15-16 =  move up by 1 cm., join 16 and 9 with a curve (see image)
Join 15-12 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)
14-17 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)
Join 15-12-17 for side seam.
Dark Marking:
19 = Mark midpoint of 9-16, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.
Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 19. 
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Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts
Some Tip: *Once your Basic Skirt draft is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching this pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric before you proceed to use this draft as a base for all your future garment patterns.*

Just place & cut the skirt draft on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping the centre back & centre front on fold and seam allowance of 1 cm. at waist lines & side seams; 
stitch all the darts (i.e. 2 waist darts each of both front & back);
stitch any one side seam, wear this rough stitched pattern over your under garment and check its fitting. 
You can temporarily pin the other side unstitched side seam.

*Best fit of the basic skirt is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern and back waist darts are ending at highest point of hip curve.*

I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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1 comment:

  1. Well, we all know that women are fashionate and they love shopping their clothes and more.
    women wear

    ReplyDelete

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