September 9, 2016

How to make Women's wear Basic Sleeve?

The Basic Sleeve draft is based on the Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

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Before you make the Basic sleeve draft, measure the armhole circumference from women's wear Basic bodice accurately with a measure tape. In order to ensure perfect fit of sleeve and at the same time to ease movements, add 3-5 cms to the measured armhole circumference. 

Begin with top left corner of the square. This is point A.
A-B = 1/2 Size – 1 cm
* Size means 1/2 Round Chest. For example; if Round Chest is 88 cms., then Size is 44 cms.
C = 1/2 of A-B
A-D = 1/10 size + 0.5 cm
A-E = 1/10 body height
B-E1 = Parallel to A-E
Copy measurements from the opposite side and connect points B1-D & E-E1
C-C1 = Square down from point C up to line E-E1
E-F = Equal measurement of line I-C1 + 0.5 cm if required (from back bodice) 
E1-F1 = Equal measurement of line M2-C2 + 0.5 cm if required (from front bodice)
[# refer Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]]
E-M =Move up 5 cms
M-N = Square left 1 cm
E1-M1 = Move up 5 cms
B1-B2 = Move left 3.5 cms
D-D1 = Move right 3 cms and use a curve to draw the sleeve cap. 
Connect points F-N-D1-B2-M1-F1 (armhole). 
C-H = Elbow length
C-I = Sleeve length
I-L = Square left from point I the same measurement as line C1-F – 2.5 cms
I-L1 = Square right from point I the same measurement as line C1-F – 2.5 cms. 
Connect points L-F, L1-F1
Some Tip: *Sleeve ease may change according to fabrics and sleeve style line as it happens to the wrist width.

Once your Basic Sleeve is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching & attaching the sleeve to Basic bodice before you proceed to use this draft as a base for all your future garment patterns. Just place & cut the sleeve pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping seam allowance of 1 cm. on all sides.
*Best fit of the basic sleeve is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern.*

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