5 September 2016

Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's wear {Single Darts}

Darts are added to a garment as they take up the excess fabric and help to fit the pattern on body contours. In a Basic Bodice pattern of women's wear there is shoulder and waist dart in front and only waist dart at back. On Basic Skirt Sloper, there are two waist darts each at front and at back. 
Darts are formed to fit body contours that vary in shape and size and they may appear as straight, concave and convex converging lines on finished garment.
Dart Manipulation is a process where the shoulder dart and waist dart of Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts] Front is transferred / shifted to either a Big waist dart, French dart, Side seam oblique dart, Armhole dart, Neckline dart or Centre front horizontal dart. As these are all single darts, they end exactly at the bust point. These darts can be manipulated to any two or more darts as well. However, if there are two or more darts then they end 2 cms. away from bust point.
In this post, I have shown step-wise transfer of shoulder dart and waist dart (of Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts] Front) to basic Single darts. For this, you have to use Basic Bodice Sloper (till waist).

Learn how to make a Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]
SINGLE DARTS
1. Big Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Big Waist Dart

* For all the below mentioned darts, I have used Step-3 of Big Waist dart.*
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2. French Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line at waist line-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.
Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark french dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
French Dart
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3. Side seam Oblique Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 3-8 cms. down from armhole-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.
Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark side seam dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Side seam Oblique Dart
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4. Armhole Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.
Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark armhole dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Armhole Dart
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5. Neckline Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 1/3rd on neckline at neckline-centre front intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.
Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark neckline dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Neckline Dart
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6. Centre Front Horizontal Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going perpendicular on centre front line.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.
Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark centre front horizontal dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.
Centre Front Horizontal Dart
Next week I’ll post about Anarkalis and its variations.

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