August 31, 2016

How to make a simple Churidaar?

Churidaar is a leg wear which is usually combined with a Kameez/ Anarkali/Short Kurta. Unlike Salwaar, it is a more fitted garment around thighs, knees, calf and ankle. Since at the ankle, this garment forms "churis"/ gathers it is named as Churidaar. In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Churidaar including seam allowance. As you can see in the given sketch, this Churidaar is without waist band and so it will have a belt stitched to it to insert the cord/drawstring. Width of this belt will be 2". This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Churidaar for first time.


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Draft of Churidaar
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length from Waist to floor; Round waist; Round hip; Round Knee; Round Calf; Round Ankle; Crotch length
How to make a simple Churidaar?
Steps:
A-B = Length from Waist to floor - belt width of 2"
B-C = 10-12" for gathers (churis)
C-D = 1" for hem
A-H = 1/3 Round Hips + 3"
A-E = Crotch length - belt width of 2" + 2.5" (ease)
E-G = A-H. Join G-H
G-F = 1/12 Round hips + 1". 
Draw crotch curve joining H-F (see image)
I = For knee point, take 1/2 distance from crotch to original length (i.e. from E to B).
I-I1 = Mark knee point as 1/2 Round knee + 1"
J = Between knee point & gathers point  (i.e. from I to B), mark midpoint as calf point. 
J-J1 = Mark 1/2 Round Calf + 1" 
Join the points F-I1-J1 connecting ankle, calf, knee, hip with a curve.

Some Tips:
1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 44".
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. As Churidaar is a fitted garment, we have to place draft on fabric that is folded diagonally at an angle of 45 degrees.
However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you. 
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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You might also like to learn:-

1] Kameez pattern

2] Salwaar pattern

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