Showing posts with label round chest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label round chest. Show all posts

August 31, 2016

How to make a simple Kameez / Kurti? FREE Pattern

Kameez is a top/shirt sewn with lot of variations in its patterns. This top is usually combined with a leg wear like Salwaar or Churidaar or Pajama or even Trouser. Kameez can be stitched with variations in its sleeves, necklines, garment lengths, yokes etc.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!


In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Kameez draft without any darts. This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Kameez for first time.

Draft of Kameez:
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Kameez; Shoulder width; Round Neck; Round Chest; 
Neck depth of Front = 6" & Back = 3"(standard measurements);
Length till Waist; Length till Hip; Round Waist; Round Hip
How to make a simple Kameez / Kurti?

Steps:
A-B = Length of Kameez
A-H=Back Neck depth (standard size is 3")
A-I=Front Neck depth (standard size is 6")
A-C = 1/6 Round Chest + 1"
A-J = Length till Waist
A-L = Length till Hip
A-E = 1/2 Shoulder width
A-G = 1/6 Round Neck + 1/2"
C-D=1/4 Round Chest + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4" 
J-K = 1/4 Round Waist + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4"
L-M = 1/4 Round Hip + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4"
(Add ease as required)
B-N = L-M measurement + 4"
N-P = 1"
- Draw perpendicular 'c' on the line of C-D and touching E.
- E-F = 1/2". Join G to F for the shoulder.
- Mark 'd' as midpoint of F & 'c'. Join D to F with a curve passing through 'd' as shown.
- Mark 'a' as midpoint of D & 'd'. Mark 'b' 1/2" below from 'a' & draw another curve from D to F passing through 'b' & 'd'.
- Inner curve passing through 'b' is Front Armhole &
- Outer curve passing through 'a' is Back Armhole.
- Join G to I with a curve to form Front neck and join G to H with a curve to form Back neck.
- Join O to P as shown in diagram.


Sleeve draft for Kameez:
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Sleeve; Round Chest; Round Arm

Steps:
A-B = Length of Sleeve
A-C = 1/12 Round Chest + 1/2"
C-D = 1/6 Round Chest + 1"
B-E = 1/2 Round Arm + 1/2"
- Mark 'a' as midpoint of A to D.
- Join A to D with a curve passing through 'a' (refer diagram).
- 'b' is the midpoint of 'a' and D.
- Take 'c' 1/2" below from 'b' and draw another curve (refer diagram).
- Some Tip: Measure the armhole curves of Front & Back on the Kurta draft. Whatever is the "x" measurement, it should be equal to the armhole curves marked for sleeve draft. Checking that the armhole curves of Kurta draft and sleeve draft are same, will help while stitching the arm curves without any extra ease.

Some Tips:
1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 36" (for Small / Medium size) or 44" (for Large / XL size)
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.


I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.

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You might also like to learn:-
1] Churidaar pattern

2] Salwaar pattern

August 10, 2016

How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

In the dress making art, taking accurate measurements is of vital importance.
All the measurements must be taken with great care and precise results.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Some Tip:- Whenever you are taking any round body measurements (i.e. Round Neck, Round Bust, Round Hip etc.) always keep two finger space while holding the measure tape around the body. By keeping this two finger space, you add little ease to your measurements.

* It is very important that you wear your best fit under garments in order to get the most accurate measurements. Wear a knitted legging and basic fit t-shirt which highlights the body contours.
How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?
The round chest measurement is considered the principle measurement because all the relative measures are determined from this measure only. In case of skirts, trousers and shorts, the seat or round hip measurement is important.

Use the following instructions and diagrams as guide to take measurements of the body:
How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?
1. Neck Circumference (Round Neck): Measure around the neck touching front collar bone moderately tight.

2. Chest Circumference (Round Chest): This is the first measurement. Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
*This measurement is considered to be the most important one, since half of chest circumference is the right size of a person. For example:- Chest Circumference 88 cms. = Size 44.

3. Bust Circumference (Round Bust): Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Waist Circumference (Round Waist): Measure around the body on the narrowest part of the waist. Make sure that the measurement is comfortable but with liberal tightness.
Some Tip: If you can’t find the waist line then tie a string around the waist and have him or her bend sideways – the string will roll to the natural waistline.

5. Hip Circumference (Round Hips): Measure around the widest part of the pelvis. It is measured approximately 21 cms below the waist line.


6. Sleeve Length: Slightly bend the arm and measure from shoulder bone to wrist.
* When you measure from shoulder to elbow it's called Elbow Length.

7. Bust Height (Height of the Bust Protrusion): Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.

8. Breast Distance (Distance between Bust Protrusion): It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

9. Chest (Across Front): Measure the front chest approx. 7-8 cms down from the neck point at the centre front from armhole to armhole.

10. Back Width (Across Back): Measure the back width 15 cms down from nape of the neck at the centre back. Measure from armhole to armhole (to find back neck bone, bend the head forward and you can feel the first neck bone).

11. Back Shoulder Width: Measure distance between the two shoulder tips.

12. Shoulder length: Measure from the neck point to the shoulder bone.

13. Back Waist Length (Length of Back) (Nape to Waist): Measure from the back neck bone at the centre back to the string tied round the waist line.

14. Front Waist Length (Length of Front) (Front Shoulder to Waist): Measure from the centre of the front shoulder passing over the bust point to the waistline.

15. Arm Circumference (Round Arm) (Scye depth): Move the measure tape starting from shoulder bone (front side) – below the armpit – back towards same shoulder bone (back side).

16. Bicep Circumference (Top Arm): The arm must be bent. Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

17. Wrist Circumference (Round Wrist): Measure around the wrist with slight ease.

18. Dress Length: Measure from shoulder at neck to knee level passing over the bust point and waistline.

19. Trouser Length: Measure the distance from waist to feet.

20. Skirt Length (Knee Length): Measure distance from waistline to knee.

21. Waist to Hip (Body Rise): Measure from waistline to hipline. 
Some Tip:- Make the person (one who is getting measured) sit on a chair with comfortable erect posture and then measure from waist line to the chair base as shown in the below image.

22. Thigh Circumference (Round Thigh): Measure around the highest area of thigh.

23. Knee Circumference (Round Knee): Measure around the knee.

24. Ankle Circumference (Round Ankle) (Round Bottom Measurement): Measure around the ankle or measure round the bottom of pants.
* This measurement keeps varying according to the fashion or personal taste.
How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

25. Crotch Length: (Round Crotch): Measure by holding the measure tape from centre front waistline, then passing this tape in-between the legs and further moving it towards the centre back waistline.

These are the basic standard measurements required to make a paper pattern or draft of a womenswear garment.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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