How to make a simple Salwaar? FREE Pattern

Salwaar is a leg wear which is usually combined with a Kameez/ Anarkali/Short Kurta. In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Salwaar with waist band including seam allowance. This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Salwaar for first time.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Draft of Salwaar:

Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Salwaar; Round hips; Round Crotch; Waist to Hips; Round Ankle (for Poncha)

How to make a simple Salwaar?

Steps:

A-B = Length of Salwaar - Waist band width (i.e. 8") + 2" (ease) + 1" (seam allowance)

B-C = 1.5"

B-G = 1/2 Round Ankle (Poncha) + 1.5" (ease)

C-H = Same as B-G

A-D = 1/2 width of material

D-E = 1/2 Round Crotch - Waist band width (i.e. 8") + 2" (ease) + 1" (seam allowance)

E-F = Go inwards by 1 to 1.5"

G-F & G-H = Join with a slant line and E-F with a slight curve (refer image)

Draft of Waist Band:

Steps:

A-B = Waist to Hips + 2" (cord case) + 1" (seam allowance)

A-C = 1/2 Round Hips + 3 to 4" (ease)

Join B-D & C-D with straight lines

Some Tips:

1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 36" (for Small / Medium size) or 44" (for Large / XL size)
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

********************
You might also like to learn:-
1] Kameez pattern

2] Churidaar pattern

Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts

The Basic Skirt draft of women's wear explained in this post has two waist darts in Front and two at Back. These darts eliminate the extra ease / fullness of fabric and help to drape the fabric crease free on waist to hip section. 

To make this draft you require following measurements (in centimeters):- Round waist, Round hip, Waist to Hip and Waist to knee. You can refer to my previous post which explains in detail how to take body measurements in women's wear

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Some Tip: Best way to make this bodice quickly is by following below given steps,do all the calculations first, write them next to each step and then start making the bodice pattern.

Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts

BACK:

Square down and right to 0.

0-1 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across

0-2 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across

2-3 = 1/4 Round hip + 1.5 cms.

0-4 & 1-5 = Same measurement as 2-3, square across each. Join 4-3-5 with straight line.

0-6 = 1/4 Round waist + 1 cm.

6-7 =  move up by 1 cm., join 0 and 7 with a curve (see image)

Join 6-3 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)

5-8 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)

Join 6-3-8 for side seam.

Dark Marking:

18 = Mark midpoint of 0-7, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.

Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 18. 

FRONT:

Square down and left to 9.

9-10 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across

9-11 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across

11-12 = 1/4 Round hip + 2 cms.

9-13 & 10-14 = Same measurement as 11-12, square across each. Join 13-12-14 with straight line.

9-15 = 1/4 Round waist + 1.5 cms.

15-16 =  move up by 1 cm., join 16 and 9 with a curve (see image)

Join 15-12 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)

14-17 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)

Join 15-12-17 for side seam.

Dark Marking:

19 = Mark midpoint of 9-16, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.

Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 19. 

--------------------------------

Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts

Some Tip: *Once your Basic Skirt draft is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching this pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric before you proceed to use this draft as a base for all your future garment patterns.*

Just place & cut the skirt draft on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping the centre back & centre front on fold and seam allowance of 1 cm. at waist lines & side seams; 

stitch all the darts (i.e. 2 waist darts each of both front & back);

stitch any one side seam, wear this rough stitched pattern over your under garment and check its fitting. 

You can temporarily pin the other side unstitched side seam.

*Best fit of the basic skirt is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern and back waist darts are ending at highest point of hip curve.*

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

******************
You might also like to learn:-

1] How to take Body Measurements in Women's Wear

2] Women's Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

3] Women's Basic Sleeve

How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

In the dress making art, taking accurate measurements is of vital importance.

All the measurements must be taken with great care and precise results.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Some Tip:- Whenever you are taking any round body measurements (i.e. Round Neck, Round Bust, Round Hip etc.) always keep two finger space while holding the measure tape around the body. By keeping this two finger space, you add little ease to your measurements.

* It is very important that you wear your best fit under garments in order to get the most accurate measurements. Wear a knitted legging and basic fit t-shirt which highlights the body contours.

How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

The round chest measurement is considered the principle measurement because all the relative measures are determined from this measure only. In case of skirts, trousers and shorts, the seat or round hip measurement is important.

Use the following instructions and diagrams as guide to take measurements of the body:

How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

1. Neck Circumference (Round Neck): Measure around the neck touching front collar bone moderately tight.

2. Chest Circumference (Round Chest): This is the first measurement. Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.

*This measurement is considered to be the most important one, since half of chest circumference is the right size of a person. For example:- Chest Circumference 88 cms. = Size 44.

3. Bust Circumference (Round Bust): Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Waist Circumference (Round Waist): Measure around the body on the narrowest part of the waist. Make sure that the measurement is comfortable but with liberal tightness.

Some Tip: If you can’t find the waist line then tie a string around the waist and have him or her bend sideways – the string will roll to the natural waistline.

5. Hip Circumference (Round Hips): Measure around the widest part of the pelvis. It is measured approximately 21 cms below the waist line.

6. Sleeve Length: Slightly bend the arm and measure from shoulder bone to wrist.

* When you measure from shoulder to elbow it's called Elbow Length.

7. Bust Height (Height of the Bust Protrusion): Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.

8. Breast Distance (Distance between Bust Protrusion): It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

9. Chest (Across Front): Measure the front chest approx. 7-8 cms down from the neck point at the centre front from armhole to armhole.

10. Back Width (Across Back): Measure the back width 15 cms down from nape of the neck at the centre back. Measure from armhole to armhole (to find back neck bone, bend the head forward and you can feel the first neck bone).

11. Back Shoulder Width: Measure distance between the two shoulder tips.

12. Shoulder length: Measure from the neck point to the shoulder bone.

13. Back Waist Length (Length of Back) (Nape to Waist): Measure from the back neck bone at the centre back to the string tied round the waist line.

14. Front Waist Length (Length of Front) (Front Shoulder to Waist): Measure from the centre of the front shoulder passing over the bust point to the waistline.

15. Arm Circumference (Round Arm) (Scye depth): Move the measure tape starting from shoulder bone (front side) – below the armpit – back towards same shoulder bone (back side).

16. Bicep Circumference (Top Arm): The arm must be bent. Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

17. Wrist Circumference (Round Wrist): Measure around the wrist with slight ease.

18. Dress Length: Measure from shoulder at neck to knee level passing over the bust point and waistline.

19. Trouser Length: Measure the distance from waist to feet.

20. Skirt Length (Knee Length): Measure distance from waistline to knee.

21. Waist to Hip (Body Rise): Measure from waistline to hipline. 

Some Tip:- Make the person (one who is getting measured) sit on a chair with comfortable erect posture and then measure from waist line to the chair base as shown in the below image.

22. Thigh Circumference (Round Thigh): Measure around the highest area of thigh.

23. Knee Circumference (Round Knee): Measure around the knee.

24. Ankle Circumference (Round Ankle) (Round Bottom Measurement): Measure around the ankle or measure round the bottom of pants.

* This measurement keeps varying according to the fashion or personal taste.

How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

25. Crotch Length: (Round Crotch): Measure by holding the measure tape from centre front waistline, then passing this tape in-between the legs and further moving it towards the centre back waistline.

These are the basic standard measurements required to make a paper pattern or draft of a womenswear garment.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

*******************

You might also like to learn:-

1] Women's Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

2] Women's Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]

3] Women's Basic Sleeve