How to make Fish-cut style Saree Petticoat?

A Fish-cut style saree petticoat is fitted from waist to knee and has flare at hem. It is a slimming petticoat style which helps to drape the saree by highlighting the hip contours and also enhances the flare at hem. For making this style of petticoat the most preferred fabrics are satin or silk. However, if you are a beginner prefer pure cotton fabric.

Unlike the Saree Petticoat, you can use a contrasting color fabric to make this petticoat. It has an adjustable drawstring at waist with no additional frill stitched at the hem of petticoat. Sarees made from Chiffon, Georgette, Net, Silk or Satin are draped beautifully on fish-cut style petticoat.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

I have shown pattern making of a Fish-cut style saree petticoat which has eight panels and a waist band to insert drawstring. If you are beginner prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this petticoat. Length of fabric should be 2.5 meters and width can be 36" (for Small / Medium size) & 44" / 48" (for Large / XL size). 

Measurements required: (in inches)

Low Round waist - Measured from 1½" below the naval point.

Round Hips - * Hips are usually measured 6-8" lower to waist.*

Petticoat length

Low waist to Hip length

Low waist to knee length

Waist band width - 6"

Steps for drafting Eight Pieces / Eight Panels: 

Line 1 = 1/8 Low round waist + 1/4".

Line 2 = 1/8 Round Hip + 1/4".

Line 3 = Length of Petticoat - waist band width (i.e. 6").

Line 4 = Low waist to Hip length.

Line 6 = Low waist to Knee length.

Line 5 = Line 2.

Line 7 = Double of line 1 or as desired.

- Join outer points of these lines & curve at hip & knee.

- Seam allowance will be 1/4".

Drafting of Waist band:

- After you have stitched the 8 panels of petticoat, measure the round waist and make above given draft of waist band.

- A-C & B-D = Waist band width is 6"
- A-B & C-D = Petticoat Round waist + 2"

Some Tips when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*I have also shown how to lay the draft on fabric in above image.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply. :) :)

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

A princess line dress is a fitted garment that has seam lines crossing over the bust point, replacing darts. As these princess lines absorb fullness of dart within stitch lines  and control the fit of garment, they are also called dart equivalents.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

In this post, I have shown step-wise pattern making of Kameez with Armhole Princess line in Front & Back.

STEP-1: Tracing the Basic Blocks

• For making Armhole Princess line Kameez, trace Front Bodice with Armhole dart & Waist dart (i.e. Step-3). Below this bodice, trace Front of basic skirt. 
• Similarly, trace Back Bodice with waist dart & below that bodice, trace Back of basic skirt. (refer below image showing STEP-1).
• * Length of the Basic Skirt Sloper is from waist to knee. You can extend the length below knee for Kameez as desired after tracing the drafts.

STEP-2: Shaping Neckline & Armhole, Adding flare & Princess line

• Neckline Shaping-

- To shape the neckline as per required pattern, go inward from neck-shoulder point by 2 or 2.5 cms.

- From that point, mark the neck depth point (using a scale) on Centre Front of bodice.

(*follow the red color lines shown in below image)

- Join these two points based on required neck pattern.

• Armhole Deepening-

- Deepen the armhole by 1.5 cms from armhole-side seam point in both Front & Back bodice.

- Draw a new arm curve running parallel to original arm curve and merge as shown in image.

• Adding flare to Hemline-

- For flare, move outwards from hemline by 5 to 15 cms. depending on how much flare is required.

- Using a scale, move up towards hip line, join this flare point to hip curve (i.e. merge slant line into curve).

- At the hem and side seam corner, move up on slant line by 2cms (see image) and give a slight curve shaping to the hem.

• Marking Armhole Princess line- 

(*follow the purple color lines shown in below image)

(Front Bodice) - Slightly curve the armhole dart.

- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.

(Back Bodice) - Mark  slightly curve slit line by going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.

- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.

* Shape the side seam contours at the waist to hip region with a slight smooth curve.

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

STEP-3: Cutting the Princess line Panels

• Cut along the purple color lines shown in above STEP-2 image to separate the Centre Panels from Side Panels.
• You have to cut the pattern along the shaped neckline, deepened armhole, added flare, shaped side seams and the marked armhole princess lines.

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

PUFF SLEEVE PATTERN

• I have combined a Puff sleeve pattern with this Armhole Princess line Kameez.
• Puff sleeve have fullness added in the form of gathers at the sleeve capline (i.e. top curve of basic sleeve) and at sleeve hemline. Puff sleeve can be of any length & it's fullness can be more or less as desired.

Some Tips:-

1. *When making Basic Sleeve pattern always measure the deepened arm curve of Front & Back bodice accurately with a measure tape.
2. *In order to ensure perfect fit of a sleeve, always make the sleeve draft after you have finished making the Front & Back patterns of your garment.

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line and Puffed Sleeve?

Step-1: Mark slit line:-

- Use pattern of Basic Sleeve with your desired length for this Armhole Princess line Kameez. I have used Sleeve length as 15 cms.

- Mark slit line at centre of sleeve running straight from sleeve cap to hem. (refer above image)

Step-2: 

• Add fullness for gathers:-

- Cut along the marked slit line to separate the front & back of sleeve.

- On a separate paper, draw an approx. perpendicular. (*follow fine black lines shown in image)

- Place the separated front & back of sleeve on either side of perpendicular at an equal distance of 3 to 6 cms (i.e. "x") (fullness as required).

• Shape the sleeve capline & hemline:-

- Join the sleeve cap & hem in centre with fine black lines as shown in image. From these lines, go up & down by 1.5 cms to mark new sleeve capline & shaped hemline.
- To mark the new sleeve capline, mark midpoints (1/2) of front & back sleeve blocks (refer image). Draw a new curve (follow beige colour curve shown in image) from 1/2 front sleeve cap-passing over 1.5 cms-to 1/2 back sleeve cap.
- To shape the new sleeve hemline (follow beige colour curve shown in image), draw slant lines.
- Mark midpoints of slant lines & draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm to mark curves (refer image).

Step-3:
- Trace STEP-2 showing beige colour curve at sleeve capline & hemline and sleeve side seam.
- Puff sleeve pattern with added fullness at it's capline and hemline marked in green lines.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply. :) :)

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************
You might also like to learn:-

1] Women's Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]
2] Women's Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]

3] Women's Basic Sleeve

4] Kameez with Shoulder Princess Line

5] Kameez pattern
6] Salwaar pattern
7] Churidaar pattern

How to make Kameez with Shoulder Princess line?

A princess line dress is a fitted garment that has seam lines crossing over the bust point, replacing darts. As these princess lines absorb fullness of dart within stitch lines  and control the fit of garment, they are also called dart equivalents.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

In this post, I have shown step-wise pattern making of Kameez with Shoulder Princess line in Front & Back. It is a step-wise method where I have used Basic bodice (of Front & Back) and Basic Skirt Sloper (Front & Back) made using personal body measurements.

STEP-1: Tracing the Basic Blocks

• For making Shoulder Princess line Kameez, trace Front Bodice with shoulder dart & waist dart. Below this bodice, trace Front of basic skirt. 
• Similarly, trace Back Bodice with waist dart & below that bodice, trace Back of basic skirt. (refer below image showing STEP-1).
• * Length of the Basic Skirt Sloper is from waist to knee. You can extend the length below knee for Kameez as desired after tracing the drafts.

STEP-2: Shaping Neckline & Armhole, Adding flare & Princess line

• Neckline Shaping-

- To shape the neckline as per required pattern, go inward from neck-shoulder point by 1.5 cms.

- From that point, mark the neck depth point (using a scale) on Centre Front.

(*follow the red color lines shown in STEP-2 in below image)

- Join these two points based on required neck shape.

• Armhole Deepening-

- Deepen the armhole by 1.5 cms from armhole-side seam point in both Front & Back bodice.

- Draw a new arm curve running parallel to original arm curve and merge as shown in STEP-2 in below image. You can merge the new arm curve in the 1/3rd armhole marking (refer image).

• Adding flare to Hemline-

- For flare, move outwards from hemline by 5 to 15 cms. depending on how much flare is required.

- Using a scale, move up towards hip line, join this flare point to hip curve (i.e. merge slant line of flare into hip curve).

- At the hem and side seam corner, move up on slant line by 2cms (see STEP-2 in image) and give a slight curve shaping to hem.
- * Shape the side seam contours at the waist to hip region with a slight smooth curve.

• Marking Shoulder Princess line-  

(*follow purple color lines shown in below image)

(Front Bodice)

- Mark the shoulder dart and waist dart in  purple color lines.

- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.

(Back Bodice)
- Mark  midpoint of shoulder. Join this midpoint to top of waist dart with  purple color lines.

- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.

How to make Kameez with Shoulder Princess line?

STEP-3: Cutting the Princess line Panels

• Cut along the purple color lines shown in above STEP-2 image to separate the Centre Panels from Side Panels.
• You have to cut the pattern along the shaped neckline, deepened armhole, added flare, shaped side seams and the marked shoulder princess lines.

How to make Kameez with Shoulder Princess line?

LEG-O-MUTTON SLEEVE PATTERN:

• I have combined a Leg-O-Mutton sleeve pattern with this Shoulder Princess line Kameez.
• Leg-O-Mutton sleeve have fullness added in the form of gathers only at the sleeve capline (i.e. top curve of basic sleeve). This sleeve is fit at sleeve hemline. Leg-O-Mutton sleeve can be of any length & it's fullness can be more or less as desired.

Some Tips:-

1. *When making Basic Sleeve pattern always measure the deepened arm curve of Front & Back bodice accurately with a measure tape.
2. *In order to ensure perfect fit of a sleeve, always make the sleeve draft after you have finished making the Front & Back patterns of your garment.

How to make Kameez with Shoulder Princess line & Leg-O-Mutton Sleeve?

STEP-1: Mark slit line:-

- Use pattern of Basic Sleeve with your desired length for making Leg-O-Mutton sleeve. I have used Sleeve length as 18 cms.

- Mark slit line at centre of sleeve running straight from sleeve cap to hem. (refer image)

STEP-2: 

• Add fullness for gathers:-

- Cut along the marked slit line to separate front & back of sleeve.

- On a separate paper, draw an approx. perpendicular. (*follow fine black lines shown in image)

- When placing the front & back sleeve on either side of perpendicular, keep the sleeve cap at an equal distance of 3 to 6 cms (i.e. "x" fullness as required) and sleeve hem tip joining each other. (refer image)

• Shape the sleeve capline & hemline:-

- Join sleeve cap in centre with fine black line as shown in image. From this line, go up by 1.5 cms to mark new sleeve capline.
- To mark new sleeve capline, mark midpoints (i.e. 1/2) of front & back sleeve blocks (refer image). -- Then draw a new curve (follow beige colour curve shown in image) from 1/2 front sleeve cap-passing over 1.5 cms-to 1/2 back sleeve cap.
- To shape new sleeve hemline, draw horizontal line joining two end of sleeve hem with fine black line as shown in image.
- Mark midpoints of horizontal line & draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm to mark curves (follow beige colour curve shown in image).

STEP-3: 
- Trace STEP-2 showing beige colour curve at sleeve capline & hemline and sleeve side seam.
- Leg-O-Mutton sleeve pattern is ready with added fullness at it's capline marked in green lines.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply. :) :)

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************
You might also like to learn:-

1] Women's Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]
2] Women's Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]
3] Women's Basic Sleeve

4] Kameez with Armhole Princess line
5] Kameez pattern
6] Salwaar pattern
7] Churidaar pattern

How to make simple Saree Petticoat?

Saree Petticoat Pattern

Saree petticoat is a simple long skirt with an adjustable drawstring at waist. Petticoat is a must when wearing a saree as it contributes to it's overall drape. Frill is stitched to the hem of petticoat to give a fuller shape at the bottom of saree. As petticoat goes underneath the saree, it's colour should match the saree's base colour. Length of the petticoat should be an inch shorter than your saree length. Fabric used for making a petticoat should be light in weight, easy on the skin and durable. Cotton, polyester-cotton, satin or silk fabrics can be used to make a petticoat. Type of fabric used to make a petticoat should be selected based on the saree material. Petticoat can be called as an 'underskirt for saree'.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

I have shown pattern making of a very basic Saree Petticoat which has six panels and a waist band to insert drawstring. If you are beginner prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this petticoat. Length of fabric should be 2.5 meters and width can be 36" (for Small / Medium size) & 44" (for Large / XL size).
Measurements required: (in inches)

- Low Round waist (it is measured from 1½" below the naval point).

- Round Hips (hips should usually be measured 6 to 8" lower to waist)

- Petticoat length (should be an inch shorter than your saree length)

- Waist band width = 6"

How to make simple Saree Petticoat?

Steps for drafting Six Pieces / Panels:

- A-B = Petticoat length – Waist band width (i.e. 6") .

- Mark point D on A-B such that A-D = 6" or 7" or 8" (this is waist to hip distance and it varies depending on Small / Medium / Large hip size).

- Draw perpendiculars from A, D and B

- A-F = 1/8 low round waist +1/2"

- A-C = go down by 1/2"

- D-E = 1/8 round hip + 1/2"

- Join F-E with slant line & extend down to meet the perpendicular drawn from B at G.

- G-H = go up on slant line by 1/2"

- Shape C-F and B-H with slight curve.

- Cut paper pattern along C-B-H and F (i.e. cut along blue inked markings).

Drafting of Waist band:

- After you have stitched the 6 panels of petticoat, measure the round waist and make above given draft of waist band.

- A-C & B-D = Waist band width is 6"
- A-B & C-D = Petticoat Round waist + 2"

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*I have also shown how to lay the draft on fabric in above image.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************

How to make a Kaftan? FREE Pattern

Kaftan

A "kaftan" or "caftan" is a type of robe or tunic which has many versions across different cultures around the world. It can be worn with a sash as a coat or an overdress, usually reaching to the ankles, with long sleeves. The kaftan has acquired different styles, purposes and names depending on the various cultures. In many regions where climate is warm, the kaftan is worn as a light-weight, loose-fitting garment. The kaftan has also served as a symbol of royalty in some cultures. Length of kaftan may vary depending on the type of legwear. For example; if it is worn over a denim, you can prefer short length i.e. from shoulder till hip or thigh & if it's worn over a churidaar, then you can have longer length i.e. till knee or below knee. Variety of fabrics like cotton, silk, satin etc. which have good drapability / fall can be used to make a kaftan.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Measurements required: (in inches)

Length of kaftan

Front Waist length
Front Hip length

Round chest, Round bust, Round waist, Round hip

Round Neck
Front & Back neck depth

Kaftan Pattern

Steps of drafting:

*Make sure that the neck region is near the fabric fold on top. 

0 to 1 = kaftan length + 2" extra for self folding at hem

0 to 2 & 1 to 3 = Full cloth width

0 to 4 = 1/6 Round chest + 1"

4 to 5 = 1/4 Round chest + 1 ½" or as ease desired

0 to 6 = Front waist length

6 to 7 = 1/4 Round waist + 1 ½" or as ease desired
0-12 = Front hip length
12-13 = 1/4 Round hip + 1 ½" or as ease desired
Join 5-7 with a slight curve & 7-13-11 with a slant curve (refer draft)

0 to 8 = 1/6 Round neck + 1/2"

0 to 9 = 3" (back neck). Join 8-9 with a curve.

0 to 10 = 5" (front neck). Join 8-10 with a curve.

Some Tips
- If you are beginner prefer using thin cotton fabric. Length of fabric can be 2.5 meters (this means length of kaftan will be till below knee) and width can be 36" (for Small / Medium size) & 44" (for Large / XL size).
- When preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************

Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's wear {Two Darts}

In my previous post, I explained Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's Wear {Single Darts}.

This post is a continuation where I will explain how to transfer only shoulder dart of Basic bodice Front to get neckline, centre front horizontal, side seam oblique or armhole dart. As the waist dart of Basic bodice Front is not transferred, we have two darts. 

All single darts end exactly at bust point where as two or more darts end 2 cms. away from bust point.

Similar to Single darts, for this process as well you have to use Basic Bodice Sloper (till waist).

Learn how to make a Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts].

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

TWO DARTS

1. Neckline & Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line by going 1/3rd on neckline at neckline-centre front intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit neckline dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Neckline & Waist Dart

----------------------------

2. Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by going perpendicular to centre front line.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit centre front horizontal dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart

----------------------------

3. Side seam oblique & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by 3-8 cms from armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit side seam oblique dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Side seam Oblique & Waist Dart

----------------------------

4. Armhole & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by  going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit armhole dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Armhole & Waist Dart

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 
Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

*********************

How to make Women's wear Basic Sleeve?

The Basic Sleeve draft is based on the Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Before you make the Basic sleeve draft, measure the armhole circumference from women's wear Basic bodice accurately with a measure tape. In order to ensure perfect fit of sleeve and at the same time to ease movements, add 3-5 cms to the measured armhole circumference. 

Begin with top left corner of the square. This is point A.

A-B = 1/2 Size – 1 cm

* Size means 1/2 Round Chest. For example; if Round Chest is 88 cms., then Size is 44 cms.

C = 1/2 of A-B

A-D = 1/10 size + 0.5 cm

A-E = 1/10 body height

B-E1 = Parallel to A-E

Copy measurements from the opposite side and connect points B1-D & E-E1

C-C1 = Square down from point C up to line E-E1

E-F = Equal measurement of line I-C1 + 0.5 cm if required (from back bodice) 

[# refer Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]]

E1-F1 = Equal measurement of line M2-C2 + 0.5 cm if required (from front bodice)
[# refer Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]]

E-M =Move up 5 cms

M-N = Square left 1 cm

E1-M1 = Move up 5 cms

B1-B2 = Move left 3.5 cms

D-D1 = Move right 3 cms and use a curve to draw the sleeve cap. 

Connect points F-N-D1-B2-M1-F1 (armhole). 

C-H = Elbow length

C-I = Sleeve length

I-L = Square left from point I the same measurement as line C1-F – 2.5 cms

I-L1 = Square right from point I the same measurement as line C1-F – 2.5 cms. 

Connect points L-F, L1-F1

Some Tip: *Sleeve ease may change according to fabrics and sleeve style line as it happens to the wrist width.

Once your Basic Sleeve is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching & attaching the sleeve to Basic bodice before you proceed to use this draft as a base for all your future garment patterns. Just place & cut the sleeve pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping seam allowance of 1 cm. on all sides.

*Best fit of the basic sleeve is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern.*

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

*********************

You might also like to learn:-

1] How to take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

2} Women's Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

3] Women's Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]

How to make a simple Churidaar? FREE Pattern

Churidaar is a leg wear which is usually combined with a Kameez/ Anarkali/Short Kurta. Unlike Salwaar, it is a more fitted garment around thighs, knees, calf and ankle. Since at the ankle, this garment forms "churis"/ gathers it is named as Churidaar. In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Churidaar including seam allowance. As you can see in the given sketch, this Churidaar is without waist band and so it will have a belt stitched to it to insert the cord/drawstring. Width of this belt will be 2". This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Churidaar for first time.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Draft of Churidaar
Measurements required: (in inches)

Length from Waist to floor; Round waist; Round hip; Round Knee; Round Calf; Round Ankle; Crotch length

How to make a simple Churidaar?

Steps:

A-B = Length from Waist to floor - belt width of 2"

B-C = 10-12" for gathers (churis)

C-D = 1" for hem

A-H = 1/3 Round Hips + 3"

A-E = Crotch length - belt width of 2" + 2.5" (ease)

E-G = A-H. Join G-H

G-F = 1/12 Round hips + 1". 

Draw crotch curve joining H-F (see image)

I = For knee point, take 1/2 distance from crotch to original length (i.e. from E to B).
I-I1 = Mark knee point as 1/2 Round knee + 1"
J = Between knee point & gathers point  (i.e. from I to B), mark midpoint as calf point. 

J-J1 = Mark 1/2 Round Calf + 1" 

Join the points F-I1-J1 connecting ankle, calf, knee, hip with a curve.

Some Tips:

1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 44".
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. As Churidaar is a fitted garment, we have to place draft on fabric that is folded diagonally at an angle of 45 degrees.
However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you. 

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

*******************

You might also like to learn:-

1] Kameez pattern

2] Salwaar pattern

How to make a simple Salwaar? FREE Pattern

Salwaar is a leg wear which is usually combined with a Kameez/ Anarkali/Short Kurta. In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Salwaar with waist band including seam allowance. This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Salwaar for first time.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Draft of Salwaar:

Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Salwaar; Round hips; Round Crotch; Waist to Hips; Round Ankle (for Poncha)

How to make a simple Salwaar?

Steps:

A-B = Length of Salwaar - Waist band width (i.e. 8") + 2" (ease) + 1" (seam allowance)

B-C = 1.5"

B-G = 1/2 Round Ankle (Poncha) + 1.5" (ease)

C-H = Same as B-G

A-D = 1/2 width of material

D-E = 1/2 Round Crotch - Waist band width (i.e. 8") + 2" (ease) + 1" (seam allowance)

E-F = Go inwards by 1 to 1.5"

G-F & G-H = Join with a slant line and E-F with a slight curve (refer image)

Draft of Waist Band:

Steps:

A-B = Waist to Hips + 2" (cord case) + 1" (seam allowance)

A-C = 1/2 Round Hips + 3 to 4" (ease)

Join B-D & C-D with straight lines

Some Tips:

1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 36" (for Small / Medium size) or 44" (for Large / XL size)
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

********************
You might also like to learn:-
1] Kameez pattern

2] Churidaar pattern