Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's wear {Two Darts}

In my previous post, I explained Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's Wear {Single Darts}.

This post is a continuation where I will explain how to transfer only shoulder dart of Basic bodice Front to get neckline, centre front horizontal, side seam oblique or armhole dart. As the waist dart of Basic bodice Front is not transferred, we have two darts. 

All single darts end exactly at bust point where as two or more darts end 2 cms. away from bust point.

Similar to Single darts, for this process as well you have to use Basic Bodice Sloper (till waist).

Learn how to make a Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts].

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

TWO DARTS

1. Neckline & Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line by going 1/3rd on neckline at neckline-centre front intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit neckline dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Neckline & Waist Dart

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2. Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by going perpendicular to centre front line.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit centre front horizontal dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart

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3. Side seam oblique & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by 3-8 cms from armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit side seam oblique dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Side seam Oblique & Waist Dart

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4. Armhole & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by  going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit armhole dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Armhole & Waist Dart

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

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Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's wear {Single Darts}

Darts are added to a garment as they take up the excess fabric and help to fit the pattern on body contours. In a Basic Bodice pattern of women's wear there is shoulder and waist dart in front and only waist dart at back. On Basic Skirt Sloper, there are two waist darts each at front and at back. 

Darts are formed to fit body contours that vary in shape and size and they may appear as straight, concave and convex converging lines on finished garment.

Dart Manipulation is a process where the shoulder dart and waist dart of Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts] Front is transferred / shifted to either a Big waist dart, French dart, Side seam oblique dart, Armhole dart, Neckline dart or Centre front horizontal dart. As these are all single darts, they end exactly at the bust point. These darts can be manipulated to any two or more darts as well. However, if there are two or more darts then they end 2 cms. away from bust point.

In this post, I have shown step-wise transfer of shoulder dart and waist dart (of Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts] Front) to basic Single darts. For this, you have to use Basic Bodice Sloper (till waist).

Learn how to make a Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

SINGLE DARTS

1. Big Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Big Waist Dart

* For all the below mentioned darts, I have used Step-3 of Big Waist dart.*

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2. French Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line at waist line-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark french dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

French Dart

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3. Side seam Oblique Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 3-8 cms. down from armhole-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark side seam dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Side seam Oblique Dart

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4. Armhole Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark armhole dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Armhole Dart

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5. Neckline Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 1/3rd on neckline at neckline-centre front intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark neckline dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Neckline Dart

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6. Centre Front Horizontal Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going perpendicular on centre front line.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark centre front horizontal dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Centre Front Horizontal Dart

Next week I’ll post about Anarkalis and its variations.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

*******************

Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts

There are various ways / methods of making a basic bodice for a women's wear. Some have shoulder dart and waist dart in Front and only waist dart in Back OR only big waist dart in Front and waist dart in Back OR shoulder and waist dart in Front and also in Back etc. These basic darts help to eliminate the extra ease of the garment making it fall smoothly on the body contours.

On the other hand, there are Basic Bodice without any darts. However, since the extra ease is not eliminated we can see lot of crease lines at armhole, neckline, side seams of such garments.

In this post, I have made a basic bodice which has helped me to get a proper fit eliminating the extra ease / creases on my garment. I have made this basic bodice by following "IL Modellismo, the pattern making book". However, I have added few markings wherever necessary (according to me). This basic bodice is with shoulder dart and waist dart in Front and waist dart in Back. I have taken body measurements in 'centimeters' when I made below given basic bodice pattern. Though if you already have / follow a basic bodice pattern (either in inches or centimeters) that is easier to make and moreover gives you best bodice fit, I suggest you to stick to it.☺

Before, starting with making this Basic Bodice, do not forget to make a list in your sewing book of all your personal body measurements. You require the following measurements (in centimeters):- Height (from head to floor), Size (1/2 Round Chest), Round Bust, Round Waist, Shoulder Width, Back Waist Length, Front Waist Length, Bust Height and Breast Distance.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

You can refer to my previous post which explains in detail "how to take body measurements".

Some Tip: Best way to make this bodice quickly is by following below given steps,do all the calculations first, write them next to each step and then start making the bodice pattern.

Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts

BACK: 

Begin with top left corner of a square. This is point A.

A-B = 1/24 size + 0.2 cm. (back neckline)
* Size means 1/2 Round Chest. For example; if Round Chest is 88 cms., then Size is 44 cms.

A-B1 = Square down 4.5 cms.

A-C = Armhole depth measurement = 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease allowance

(*The ease allowance 1.7 cms. may vary; it can be increased to ease movement and add fullness to the sleeve or even decreased according to the garment style line.)
* Armhole depth measurement means Arm circumference/ Round arm / Scye depth. For this pattern it is calculated using a formula (i.e. 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease) and not measured on body.

A-D = Back Waist length

A-G = 1/6 size. With the curve join points G-B for the neck curve

A-H = 1/2 back width (i.e. shoulder width)

C-C1 = 1/4 Round Bust – 1 cm + 2 cms ease allowance

D-D1 = 1/4 Round Waist – 1 cm + 3 cms. (Dart) + 2 cms ease allowance.

Join points C1-D1 (this is side seam)

H-I = Perpendicular to C-C1, same measurement as A-C

H-L = Square down 4.5 cms on line of H-I, same as A-B1. Join B1-L

B1-L1 = 1/2 back shoulder width. Join points G-L1 to create shoulder length.

I-M = Square up 5 cms and square right 0.3 cm; with a curve join points L1-M-C1 to draw the armhole

Dart marking:

D-R = 1/2 of D-D1

R-R1 = Draw perpendicular from R to mark R1 on line of C-C1

R-R2 = Square up 14 cm on R-R1

R-R3 = R-R4 = 1.5 cms. Join points R3-R2-R4 to mark dart.

FRONT: 

Begin with top right corner of a square. This is point A1.

A1-C3 = Armhole depth measurement = 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease allowance

(*The ease allowance 1.7 cms. may vary; it can be increased to ease movement and add fullness to the sleeve or even decreased according to the garment style line.)

A1-D3 = Back Waist length

D3-A2 = Front Waist length

A2-B2 = 1/6 size + 1 cm. (neckline depth)

A2-G4 = 1/6 size. With the curve join points G4-B2 (front neckline)

A2-H1 = 1/2 back width – 1cm

C3-C2 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms ease allowance

D3-D2 = 1/4 Round Waist + 3 cms. (Dart) + 2 cms ease allowance. Join points C2-D2 (side seam)

H1-I1 = Perpendicular to C3-C2, same measurement as A2-C3

H1-L4 = Square down 7.5 cms on line of H1-I1

G4-L5 = Measure the shoulder length G-L1 on back bodice. Draw G4-L5 left to L4.

*Front and back shoulder length should be same.

A2-N = Bust height

N-N1 = 1/2 breast distance

G4-G1 = Starting at point G4 move to the left towards L5 by 1/10 size + 0.5 cm.

G1-G2 = Square up 1.6 cms on right angles at G1 on the shoulder line to mark G2.

Join to points G2- G4.

G2-N1 = Join with a straight line to the bust point

N1-N2 = Square up 7.5 cms on line of G2-N1 and move left 2 cms at right angles to the dart line and mark point N3.

G3-N1 = Measure G2-N1 and use this measurement to draw a line from N1 up to G3 passing through N3 so as to complete the dart. Dart legs are always the same length.

G3-L2 = G-L1 (back shoulder length) – G4-G2.

Make perpendicular of G3-L2 to dart line of G3-N1. Join G3-G2 to mark shoulder dart.

I1-M2 = Square up 5 cms on line of H1-I1

M2-M1 = Move left 2 cms. (This measurement varies according to the dart depth)

With a curve join points L2-M1-C2 to draw the armhole

Dart marking:

D3-R5 = Equal length of N-N1

R5-R6 = Draw perpendicular to D2-D3. From point N1 square down 2 cms. to mark R6

R-5R8 = R5-R7 = 1.5 cms. Join points R5-R6-R7-R8 to mark dart.

Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts

I know there are a lot of markings :) but if you follow the sequence /steps properly am sure you will get a perfect fit of basic bodice using your personal measurement chart.
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Some Tip: *Once your Basic Bodice is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching this pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric before you proceed to use this bodice as a base for all your future garment patterns.*

Just place & cut the bodice pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping the centre back & centre front on fold and seam allowance of 1 cm. at neckline, shoulder, armhole & side seam; 
stitch all the darts (i.e. 2 shoulder darts and 4 waist darts of both front & back);
stitch any one side shoulder & side seam, wear this rough stitched pattern over your under garment and check its fitting. 
You can temporarily pin the other side unstitched shoulder and side seam.

*Best fit of the basic bodice is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern and both shoulder darts and waist darts are ending at least 2 cms. away from the bust points.*

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

********************
You might also like to learn:-

1] How to take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

2] Women's Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]

3] Women's Basic Sleeve

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Garment pattern making is considered as a technical subject. In order to make these patterns easy to understand and execute, some basic abbreviations/short forms are used. These abbreviations should be marked on each piece of paper pattern that is constructed based on the garment design. When these abbreviations are marked accurately on the paper patterns, they help in placement of these patterns on the fabric which will be ultimately cut.

Apart from these basic abbreviations, one should also mention the number of pieces to be cut of each paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve etc.) & the grainline should be marked. These markings give a clear idea to the fabric cutting master regarding how the paper pattern should be placed and cut on fabric. If there is wrong or no indication of grainline and number of pieces marked on the paper pattern, it might become difficult to place and cut the fabric,especially if you are a beginner. 

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Yes, these are little markings but they definitely help you from making any big blunders or fabric wastage at later stage of garment making process.☺

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

The basic abbreviations to be marked on each piece of garment paper pattern are given below:---

BL = Back Length 

FL = Front Length

Ac. F = Across Front

Ac. B = Across Back

RN = Round Neck

RB = Round Bust

RW = Round Waist

RH = Round Hips

RA = Round Arm

SL = Sleeve Length

NL = Neckline

Sh. = Shoulder

Ch. = Chest

AH = Armhole

SS = Side Seam

YL = Yoke Line

WL = Waist Line

HL = Hem Line

CF = Centre Front

CB = Centre Back

FC = Fold Cloth

FP = Fold Paper

Ext. = Extension [Ext. = Length of Garment – Length of Back]

Blue Dotted = Fold Lines - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Blue Bold = Cutting Lines ________________ 

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Fabric Grainlines:-
Depending on the pattern requirement, there are 3 basic grainline markings which should be marked on each piece of the paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar etc.). These grainlines indicate how one should place the paper pattern on fabric.

In most of the garments, fabric grain runs vertical i.e. parallel to selvedge. This is because fabric falls more comfortably on vertical grainline. It also holds the creases and folds better than a horizontal fabric grainline.

On the other hand, a horizontal grainline runs parallel to the width of fabric.

A bais grainline runs at a diagonal angle to vertical and horizontal grain on fabric and has maximum stretchability. Bias conforms to body contour more than vertical or horizontal grain.

I will be using these abbreviations in my posts where I will try to explain the various Indian womenswear patterns in a step wise method and with drafts wherever required.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

------------------------------

You might also like to learn:-

How to take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

Women's Wear Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]

Women's Wear Basic Sleeve