Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's wear {Two Darts}

In my previous post, I explained Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's Wear {Single Darts}.

This post is a continuation where I will explain how to transfer only shoulder dart of Basic bodice Front to get neckline, centre front horizontal, side seam oblique or armhole dart. As the waist dart of Basic bodice Front is not transferred, we have two darts. 

All single darts end exactly at bust point where as two or more darts end 2 cms. away from bust point.

Similar to Single darts, for this process as well you have to use Basic Bodice Sloper (till waist).

Learn how to make a Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts].

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

TWO DARTS

1. Neckline & Waist Dart:
Step-1 - Mark slit line by going 1/3rd on neckline at neckline-centre front intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit neckline dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Neckline & Waist Dart

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2. Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by going perpendicular to centre front line.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit centre front horizontal dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Centre Front Horizontal & Waist Dart

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3. Side seam oblique & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by 3-8 cms from armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit side seam oblique dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Side seam Oblique & Waist Dart

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4. Armhole & Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line by  going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.
Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper with slit armhole dart.

Also trace the waist dart of Basic bodice as is.
* Both darts should be marked 2 cms. away from bust point.

Armhole & Waist Dart

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's wear {Single Darts}

Darts are added to a garment as they take up the excess fabric and help to fit the pattern on body contours. In a Basic Bodice pattern of women's wear there is shoulder and waist dart in front and only waist dart at back. On Basic Skirt Sloper, there are two waist darts each at front and at back. 

Darts are formed to fit body contours that vary in shape and size and they may appear as straight, concave and convex converging lines on finished garment.

Dart Manipulation is a process where the shoulder dart and waist dart of Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts] Front is transferred / shifted to either a Big waist dart, French dart, Side seam oblique dart, Armhole dart, Neckline dart or Centre front horizontal dart. As these are all single darts, they end exactly at the bust point. These darts can be manipulated to any two or more darts as well. However, if there are two or more darts then they end 2 cms. away from bust point.

In this post, I have shown step-wise transfer of shoulder dart and waist dart (of Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts] Front) to basic Single darts. For this, you have to use Basic Bodice Sloper (till waist).

Learn how to make a Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

SINGLE DARTS

1. Big Waist Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Big Waist Dart

* For all the below mentioned darts, I have used Step-3 of Big Waist dart.*

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2. French Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line at waist line-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark french dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

French Dart

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3. Side seam Oblique Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 3-8 cms. down from armhole-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark side seam dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Side seam Oblique Dart

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4. Armhole Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark armhole dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Armhole Dart

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5. Neckline Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going 1/3rd on neckline at neckline-centre front intersection point.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark neckline dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Neckline Dart

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6. Centre Front Horizontal Dart:

Step-1 - Mark slit line in centre of waist dart.

Step-2 - Cut slit line and fold shoulder dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-1.

Step-3 - Trace Step-2 on separate paper & mark big waist dart. (trace green markings of dart).

* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Step-4 - Mark & cut slit line by going perpendicular on centre front line.
Fold waist dart as per direction of arrow shown in Step-3 to open side seam slit.

Step-5 - Trace Step-4 on separate paper & mark centre front horizontal dart.
* The dart will be marked till bust point as all single darts end at bust point.

Centre Front Horizontal Dart

Next week I’ll post about Anarkalis and its variations.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

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Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

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Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Garment pattern making is considered as a technical subject. In order to make these patterns easy to understand and execute, some basic abbreviations/short forms are used. These abbreviations should be marked on each piece of paper pattern that is constructed based on the garment design. When these abbreviations are marked accurately on the paper patterns, they help in placement of these patterns on the fabric which will be ultimately cut.

Apart from these basic abbreviations, one should also mention the number of pieces to be cut of each paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve etc.) & the grainline should be marked. These markings give a clear idea to the fabric cutting master regarding how the paper pattern should be placed and cut on fabric. If there is wrong or no indication of grainline and number of pieces marked on the paper pattern, it might become difficult to place and cut the fabric,especially if you are a beginner. 

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Yes, these are little markings but they definitely help you from making any big blunders or fabric wastage at later stage of garment making process.☺

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

The basic abbreviations to be marked on each piece of garment paper pattern are given below:---

BL = Back Length 

FL = Front Length

Ac. F = Across Front

Ac. B = Across Back

RN = Round Neck

RB = Round Bust

RW = Round Waist

RH = Round Hips

RA = Round Arm

SL = Sleeve Length

NL = Neckline

Sh. = Shoulder

Ch. = Chest

AH = Armhole

SS = Side Seam

YL = Yoke Line

WL = Waist Line

HL = Hem Line

CF = Centre Front

CB = Centre Back

FC = Fold Cloth

FP = Fold Paper

Ext. = Extension [Ext. = Length of Garment – Length of Back]

Blue Dotted = Fold Lines - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Blue Bold = Cutting Lines ________________ 

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Fabric Grainlines:-
Depending on the pattern requirement, there are 3 basic grainline markings which should be marked on each piece of the paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar etc.). These grainlines indicate how one should place the paper pattern on fabric.

In most of the garments, fabric grain runs vertical i.e. parallel to selvedge. This is because fabric falls more comfortably on vertical grainline. It also holds the creases and folds better than a horizontal fabric grainline.

On the other hand, a horizontal grainline runs parallel to the width of fabric.

A bais grainline runs at a diagonal angle to vertical and horizontal grain on fabric and has maximum stretchability. Bias conforms to body contour more than vertical or horizontal grain.

I will be using these abbreviations in my posts where I will try to explain the various Indian womenswear patterns in a step wise method and with drafts wherever required.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

Stay connected on 

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Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

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You might also like to learn:-

How to take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

Women's Wear Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]

Women's Wear Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]

Women's Wear Basic Sleeve