How to make Single Katori / One Piece Katori Blouse with sleeve?

In my previous post, I had explained pattern making of Two Piece Katori Blouse . In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a One Piece Katori blouse with sleeve. The Katori blouse is designed based on the natural bust shape of women. The word "Katori" derived from Hindi language means "Cup".

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a Katori blouse with sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. Since the Front of this Blouse is divided in four parts you can use different combinations of fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

To make a Katori Blouse with sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.

2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.

3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.

5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.

6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

Complete cutting & stitching of the blouse is shown in the below given video.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms

3-4 = Join in straight line

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm

6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7

8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

10-11 = Join in straight line

10-12 = Down by 2 cms

0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve

12-3 for Arm curve

12-13 for Shoulder

3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -

* Pattern is shown in 3 STEPS just to explain how the 3 PARTS of Front are separated later in the draft before placement on fabric.
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

1-2 = 2 cms

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms

4-5  =  Join in straight line

1-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6.5 cms

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

7-8 = Join in straight line

7-9 = Down by 2 cms

8-10 = Up by 2.5 cms

0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms (or mark neck depth as desired)

Join 11-12 for Neck curve

4-10-9 for Arm curve

Join 4-6 in straight line

PART-1: Katori shape with Dart -
2-13 = go up by 1/10 Round Bust
5-14 = go up by 1/16 Round Bust
14-15 = 1.5 cms
Join 4-15 for Side seam
15-16 = 1/16 Round Bust + 2 cms
13-17 = go right by 3 cms
17-18 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
18-19 = 7 cms (dart width)
19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19
20-21 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm (dart length)
20-22 =  down by 3 cms

12-23 = 1/8 Round Bust
16-23 = Join with a curve
17-24 & 16-19 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
Join 19-21-24 for dart leg

PART-2: Basque - 
(it is the band which is stitched below the bust)
1-25 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
25-26 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
26-27 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
Join 1-27 in curve to form a Basque

PART-3: Side Piece - 
(it is the part which joins Katori & Sleeve)

SLEEVE -

STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

Placement of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

Marking of Seam Allowance -

Cutting of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you liked this pattern then Pin it!

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 
Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

*********************

How to make Double Katori / Two Piece Katori Blouse with Sleeve?

In my previous posts, I had explained pattern making of Saree Blouse without Sleeve and Saree Blouse with Sleeve. In the next few posts, including this one, I will be sharing pattern making of various styles of saree blouses.

In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a Two piece Katori blouse with sleeve. The Katori blouse is designed based on the natural bust shape of women. The word "Katori" derived from Hindi language means "Cup".

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a Katori blouse with sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. Since the Front of this Blouse is divided in four parts you can use different combinations of fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Complete cutting and stitching of the double katori / two piece katori blouse is shown in the video given below ☺

To make a Katori Blouse with sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.

2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.

3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.

5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.

6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms

3-4 = Join in straight line

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm

6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7

8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

10-11 = Join in straight line

10-12 = Down by 2 cms

0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve

12-3 for Arm curve

12-13 for Shoulder

3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -

* Pattern is shown in 3 STEPS just to explain how the 4 PARTS of Front are separated later in the draft before placement on fabric.
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

1-2 = 2 cms

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms

4-5  =  Join in straight line

2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6.5 cms

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

7-8 = Join in straight line

7-9 = Down by 2 cms

8-10 = Up by 2.5 cms

0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms (or mark neck depth as desired)

Join 11-12 for Neck curve

4-10-9 for Arm curve

4-6 for Side seam

PART-1: of Katori shape -

12-13 = 1/16 Round Bust (mark on neck curve)
3-14 = 1/10 Round Chest (mark on line of 3-4)
14-15 = Down by 1/16 Round Chest
11-16 = Shoulder to bust point
15-17 & 15-18 = 1/10 Round Chest
6-19 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 13-17-19 with a curve (refer image)
Join 17-16-18 with a curve (refer image)

PART-2: of Katori shape with Dart -
17-20 = Down by 4 cms (mark on the katori curve)
20-21 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)
1-22 = Up by 2 cms
22-23 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
23-24 = 4 cms (dart width)
24-25 = Midpoint of 23-24
20-26 = Midpoint of 20-21
Join 24-26 & 23-26 to form a dart

PART-3: Basque - 
(it is the band which is stitched below the bust)

2-27 = Down by 2 cms
27-28 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2.5 cms
27-29 = 1/10 Round Bust
28-30 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 27-29-30-28-27 to form a Basque

PART-4: Side Piece - 
(it is the part which joins Katori & Sleeve)
6-31 = 1/16 Round Bust
31-32 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)

SLEEVE -

STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

Placement of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

Marking of Seam Allowance -

Cutting of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope this post was helpful to you. If you liked it then Pin it!☺

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook.

Happy Sewing!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************

How to make Simple Saree Blouse with Sleeve? FREE Pattern

In my previous posts, I have explained pattern making of Six piece Saree Petticoat and Fish-cut Style Saree Petticoat. In the next few posts, including this one, I will be sharing pattern making of various styles of saree blouses. In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a very basic saree blouse with sleeve.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a basic saree blouse without sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric.

To make a Saree Blouse with sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.

2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.

3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.

5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.

6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

Steps of drafting:-

BACK -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms

3-4 = Join in straight line

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm

6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7

8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

10-11 = Join in straight line

10-12 = Down by 2 cms

0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve

12-3 for Arm curve

12-13 for Shoulder

3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms

4-5  =  Join in straight line

2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms

Waist Dart -

2-7 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm

7-8 = 4 cms (dart width)
8-9 = Midpoint of 7-8

9-10 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms

Join 8-10-7

0-11 & 3-12 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

11-12 = Join in straight line

11-13 = Down by 2 cms

12-14 = Up by 2.5 cms

0-15 = 1/10 Round Bust

3-16 = 2 cms (or neck depth as required)

Join 15-16 for Neck curve

4-14-13 for Arm curve

4-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -

4-17 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm

17-18 = 2 cms (dart width)

18-19 = Midpoint of 18-19

19-20 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms

Join 17-20-18
Centre Front Dart -

3-21 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm

21-22 = 1.5 cms (dart width)

22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22

23-24 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 21-24-22

SLEEVE -

STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

* It is a very basic blouse pattern with sleeve. However, once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.☺

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************

How to make Simple Saree Blouse without Sleeve? / Sleeveless Blouse

In my previous posts, I have explained pattern making of Six piece Saree Petticoat and Fish-cut Style Saree Petticoat. In the next few posts, including this one, I will be sharing pattern making of various styles of saree blouses. In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a very basic saree blouse without a sleeve.

Fabric used:- For making a basic saree blouse without the sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric.

To make a Sleeveless Saree Blouse, all the measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Complete patternmaking /drafting is shown in my video given below. ☺

Complete cutting and stitching are shown in my video given below. ☺

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above the waistline.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.

3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust.

4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.

5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.

6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:-
BACK -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms

3-4 = Join in straight line

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms

Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm

6-7 = 2 cms (dart width)

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7

8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1cm

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

10-11 = Join in straight line

10-12 = Down by 2 cms

0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve

12-3 for Arm curve

12-13 for Shoulder

3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms

4-5  =  Join in straight line

2-6 & 1-7 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms

Waist Dart -

2-8 = 1/2 Distance between bust points

8-9 = 2 cms & 8-10 = 2 cms (dart width)

8-11 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms

Join 9-11-10 in slant line for dart

0-12 & 3-13 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

12-13 = Join in straight line

12-14 = Down by 2 cms

13-15 = Up by 2.5 cms

0-16 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-17 = 1/6 Round Bust (or neck depth as required)

Join 16-17 for Neck curve

4-15-14 for Arm curve

4-7-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -

4-18 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm

18-19 = 2 cms (dart width)

19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19

20-21 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 18-21-19 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -

3-22 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm

22-23 = 1.5 cms (dart width)

23-24 = Midpoint of 22-23

24-25 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 22-25-23 in slant line for dart

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using a basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at a right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.
Placement of FRONT & BACK drafts of Blouse on Fabric -

Marking of Seam Allowance -

Cutting FRONT & BACK of Blouse -

* It is a very basic sleeveless blouse pattern. However, once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered/striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.☺

I hope this post was helpful to you. If you liked it then Pin it!☺

Please leave your valuable comments/queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook.

Happy Sewing!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************

How to make Fish-cut style Saree Petticoat?

A Fish-cut style saree petticoat is fitted from waist to knee and has flare at hem. It is a slimming petticoat style which helps to drape the saree by highlighting the hip contours and also enhances the flare at hem. For making this style of petticoat the most preferred fabrics are satin or silk. However, if you are a beginner prefer pure cotton fabric.

Unlike the Saree Petticoat, you can use a contrasting color fabric to make this petticoat. It has an adjustable drawstring at waist with no additional frill stitched at the hem of petticoat. Sarees made from Chiffon, Georgette, Net, Silk or Satin are draped beautifully on fish-cut style petticoat.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

I have shown pattern making of a Fish-cut style saree petticoat which has eight panels and a waist band to insert drawstring. If you are beginner prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this petticoat. Length of fabric should be 2.5 meters and width can be 36" (for Small / Medium size) & 44" / 48" (for Large / XL size). 

Measurements required: (in inches)

Low Round waist - Measured from 1½" below the naval point.

Round Hips - * Hips are usually measured 6-8" lower to waist.*

Petticoat length

Low waist to Hip length

Low waist to knee length

Waist band width - 6"

Steps for drafting Eight Pieces / Eight Panels: 

Line 1 = 1/8 Low round waist + 1/4".

Line 2 = 1/8 Round Hip + 1/4".

Line 3 = Length of Petticoat - waist band width (i.e. 6").

Line 4 = Low waist to Hip length.

Line 6 = Low waist to Knee length.

Line 5 = Line 2.

Line 7 = Double of line 1 or as desired.

- Join outer points of these lines & curve at hip & knee.

- Seam allowance will be 1/4".

Drafting of Waist band:

- After you have stitched the 8 panels of petticoat, measure the round waist and make above given draft of waist band.

- A-C & B-D = Waist band width is 6"
- A-B & C-D = Petticoat Round waist + 2"

Some Tips when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*I have also shown how to lay the draft on fabric in above image.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply. :) :)

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************

List of Indian Fashion Garment Patterns

Basics of Garment Pattern Making:

1) Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

2) How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear

3) Women's Wear Basic Bodice [till waist ]- {with darts}

4) Women's Wear Basic Sleeve

5) Women's Wear Basic Skirt [Waist to knee} - {with darts}

6) Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's Wear {Single Darts}

7) Basic Dart Manipulations in Women's Wear - {Two Darts}

Kameez / Kurtis & Other Tops:

1) Kameez

2) Kaftan

3) Kameez with Shoulder Princess line

4) Kameez with Armhole Princess line
5) Shirt style Blouse

Salwaar & Other Bottoms:

1) Salwaar

2) Churidaar

3) Saree Petticoat
4) Fish-cut style Saree Petticoat

Anarkalis:

1) PART-1 Circular Skirt Anarkalis

2) PART-2 Single Piece Anarkali & Panel Anarkalis

Saree Blouse Patterns:

1) Saree Blouse without Sleeve
2) Saree Blouse with Sleeve
3) Two-piece Katori Blouse with Sleeve
4) One piece Katori Blouse with Sleeve
5) Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse
6) Sari Blouse with Back Smocking
7) High Neck Saree Blouse
8) Stand "V" Saree Blouse
9) Raglan Sleeve saree blouse
10) Simple Saree Blouse with Basque (Patti)
11) Boat neck Saree Blouse
12) Scallop Shaped neckline Saree Blouse
13) Off Shoulder raglan sleeve with Armhole Princess line Saree Blouse


Kidswear:
1) Flutter sleeve Romper - sewing tutorial & FREE pattern (PART-1)
2) Flutter sleeve Romper - sewing tutorial & FREE pattern (PART-2)

Reuse / Recycle Old Clothes:
1) DIY Summer Maxi dress - How to Reuse/ Recycle Old Clothes - FREE Pattern
2) DIY Recycle old Denim to Tote Bag - FREE Pattern

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 
Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

A princess line dress is a fitted garment that has seam lines crossing over the bust point, replacing darts. As these princess lines absorb fullness of dart within stitch lines  and control the fit of garment, they are also called dart equivalents.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

In this post, I have shown step-wise pattern making of Kameez with Armhole Princess line in Front & Back.

STEP-1: Tracing the Basic Blocks

• For making Armhole Princess line Kameez, trace Front Bodice with Armhole dart & Waist dart (i.e. Step-3). Below this bodice, trace Front of basic skirt. 
• Similarly, trace Back Bodice with waist dart & below that bodice, trace Back of basic skirt. (refer below image showing STEP-1).
• * Length of the Basic Skirt Sloper is from waist to knee. You can extend the length below knee for Kameez as desired after tracing the drafts.

STEP-2: Shaping Neckline & Armhole, Adding flare & Princess line

• Neckline Shaping-

- To shape the neckline as per required pattern, go inward from neck-shoulder point by 2 or 2.5 cms.

- From that point, mark the neck depth point (using a scale) on Centre Front of bodice.

(*follow the red color lines shown in below image)

- Join these two points based on required neck pattern.

• Armhole Deepening-

- Deepen the armhole by 1.5 cms from armhole-side seam point in both Front & Back bodice.

- Draw a new arm curve running parallel to original arm curve and merge as shown in image.

• Adding flare to Hemline-

- For flare, move outwards from hemline by 5 to 15 cms. depending on how much flare is required.

- Using a scale, move up towards hip line, join this flare point to hip curve (i.e. merge slant line into curve).

- At the hem and side seam corner, move up on slant line by 2cms (see image) and give a slight curve shaping to the hem.

• Marking Armhole Princess line- 

(*follow the purple color lines shown in below image)

(Front Bodice) - Slightly curve the armhole dart.

- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.

(Back Bodice) - Mark  slightly curve slit line by going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.

- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.

* Shape the side seam contours at the waist to hip region with a slight smooth curve.

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

STEP-3: Cutting the Princess line Panels

• Cut along the purple color lines shown in above STEP-2 image to separate the Centre Panels from Side Panels.
• You have to cut the pattern along the shaped neckline, deepened armhole, added flare, shaped side seams and the marked armhole princess lines.

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

PUFF SLEEVE PATTERN

• I have combined a Puff sleeve pattern with this Armhole Princess line Kameez.
• Puff sleeve have fullness added in the form of gathers at the sleeve capline (i.e. top curve of basic sleeve) and at sleeve hemline. Puff sleeve can be of any length & it's fullness can be more or less as desired.

Some Tips:-

1. *When making Basic Sleeve pattern always measure the deepened arm curve of Front & Back bodice accurately with a measure tape.
2. *In order to ensure perfect fit of a sleeve, always make the sleeve draft after you have finished making the Front & Back patterns of your garment.

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line and Puffed Sleeve?

Step-1: Mark slit line:-

- Use pattern of Basic Sleeve with your desired length for this Armhole Princess line Kameez. I have used Sleeve length as 15 cms.

- Mark slit line at centre of sleeve running straight from sleeve cap to hem. (refer above image)

Step-2: 

• Add fullness for gathers:-

- Cut along the marked slit line to separate the front & back of sleeve.

- On a separate paper, draw an approx. perpendicular. (*follow fine black lines shown in image)

- Place the separated front & back of sleeve on either side of perpendicular at an equal distance of 3 to 6 cms (i.e. "x") (fullness as required).

• Shape the sleeve capline & hemline:-

- Join the sleeve cap & hem in centre with fine black lines as shown in image. From these lines, go up & down by 1.5 cms to mark new sleeve capline & shaped hemline.
- To mark the new sleeve capline, mark midpoints (1/2) of front & back sleeve blocks (refer image). Draw a new curve (follow beige colour curve shown in image) from 1/2 front sleeve cap-passing over 1.5 cms-to 1/2 back sleeve cap.
- To shape the new sleeve hemline (follow beige colour curve shown in image), draw slant lines.
- Mark midpoints of slant lines & draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm to mark curves (refer image).

Step-3:
- Trace STEP-2 showing beige colour curve at sleeve capline & hemline and sleeve side seam.
- Puff sleeve pattern with added fullness at it's capline and hemline marked in green lines.

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply. :) :)

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

**********************
You might also like to learn:-

1] Women's Basic Bodice {till waist} [with darts]
2] Women's Basic Skirt {from waist to knee} [with darts]

3] Women's Basic Sleeve

4] Kameez with Shoulder Princess Line

5] Kameez pattern
6] Salwaar pattern
7] Churidaar pattern