How to make Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style? F R E E Pattern

Hello everyone,

I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a stylized Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style. This pattern was requested by one of the subscribers.

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless Blouse, Basic Saree Blouse with Sleeve, Double Katori Blouse, One Piece Katori Blouse and also some stylized saree blouse patterns like  Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse, Saree Blouse with Back Smocking, High Neck Saree Blouse, Stand "V" Saree Blouse, Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse, Blouse with Basque (Patti), Boat Neck Saree Blouse and Scallop Shaped Neckline.

You can also visit my new YouTube Channel - "Sudha's Apparel Patterns" for more sewing videos. Please Subscribe the Channel if you like it.☺

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style.

The Blouse pattern has (1) Front bust katori (cup) pieces, (2) Deep neckline and (3) Front Basque. This blouse will have a back opening.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylized Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 

You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of Back - Measure from back neck bone passing over the center back to 5 to 6 cms above waist line. 

2. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line. 

3. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back. 

4. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at the back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust. 

5. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust. 

6. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone. 

7. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.

Steps of drafting:-

BACK -

0-1 = Length of Back + 1 cm 

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest 

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms 

3-4 = Join in straight line 

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms 

Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm 

6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width) 

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7 

8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust 

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart (dotted lines for dart marking) 

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm 

10-11 = Join in straight line 

10-12 = Down by 2 cms 

12-13 = Draw Shoulder length as desired (keep as 5 to 6 cms) 

0-14 = Neck depth as desired (as per photo it’s a deep neck). 

Join 13-14 for Neck curve, 12-3 for Arm curve, 12-13 for Shoulder, 3-5 for Side seam 

# Back draft should be placed on a straight grainline of fabric i.e. parallel to selvedge. 

Cut 2 pieces as the back will have opening with hooks at center back.

FRONT -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm 

1-2 = 2 cms 

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest 

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms 

4-5 = Join in straight line 

2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms 

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm 

4-6 = Join for side seam 

PART-1: 

Neck, Arm curve and Shoulder marking - 

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

Join 7-8 in straight line

0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-10 = Neck depth as desired (as per photo the neck depth is at level of round chest). It’s a deep neck. 

9-10 = Join to make a neckline shape as shown.

7-10 = Down by 2 cms

9-11 = Draw Shoulder length as desired (keep as 5 to 6 cms) 

Join 4-11 for Arm curve

PART-2: 

Katori Shape - (cut this part as 2 pieces with diagonal fabric grainline)

10-12 = 1/16 Round Bust (mark on neck curve)

6-13 = 1/16 Round Bust

3-14 = 1/10 Round Chest (mark on line of 3-4)

14-15 = Down by 1/16 Round Chest (marked as dotted line)

15-16 = Mark horizontal 1/10 Round Chest (marked as dotted line)

15-16 & 15-17 = Draw horizontal dotted line passing across on both sides from point 15

Join 12-16-13 to mark Katori curve

9-18 = Mark Shoulder to bust point

Join 16-18-17 with a curve (refer image)

PART-3: 

Basque - (cut this part as 1 piece on horizontal fabric grainline)

2-19 = Down by 2 cms

19-20 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2.5 cms

19-21 = 1/10 Round Bust

20-22 = 1/16 Round Bust

21-22 = Join in a curve (refer image)

PART-4: 

Katori Shape with dart - (cut this part as 2 pieces with diagonal fabric grainline)

1-23 = Go up by 2 cms

23-24 = 1/10 Round bust - 1 cm

24-25 = 4 cms (dart width)

26 = Midpoint of 24-25

26-27 = 1/10 Round bust + 1 cm (dart length)

Join 24-27-25 to form a dart

PART-5: 

Side Panel - (it is a part which is joint to Katori piece)

(cut this part as 2 pieces on straight fabric grainline)

6-28 = 1/16 Round Bust

28-29 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)

Side piece is from 11-9-12-29-28-4 to 11 

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Final Pieces of Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style

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Note: This blouse pattern should have lining so using above pattern, cut pieces of lining for front katori, side panels, front basque and back accordingly.

The fabric used:- For making this style of saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc.) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using the basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at a right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.

*Do try this beautiful pattern and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.

If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / YouTube / Instagram

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips/hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

How to make Single Katori / One Piece Katori Blouse with sleeve?

In my previous post, I had explained pattern making of Two Piece Katori Blouse . In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a One Piece Katori blouse with sleeve. The Katori blouse is designed based on the natural bust shape of women. The word "Katori" derived from Hindi language means "Cup".

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a Katori blouse with sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. Since the Front of this Blouse is divided in four parts you can use different combinations of fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

To make a Katori Blouse with sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.

2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.

3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.

5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.

6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

Complete cutting & stitching of the blouse is shown in the below given video.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms

3-4 = Join in straight line

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm

6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7

8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

10-11 = Join in straight line

10-12 = Down by 2 cms

0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve

12-3 for Arm curve

12-13 for Shoulder

3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -

* Pattern is shown in 3 STEPS just to explain how the 3 PARTS of Front are separated later in the draft before placement on fabric.
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

1-2 = 2 cms

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms

4-5  =  Join in straight line

1-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6.5 cms

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

7-8 = Join in straight line

7-9 = Down by 2 cms

8-10 = Up by 2.5 cms

0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms (or mark neck depth as desired)

Join 11-12 for Neck curve

4-10-9 for Arm curve

Join 4-6 in straight line

PART-1: Katori shape with Dart -
2-13 = go up by 1/10 Round Bust
5-14 = go up by 1/16 Round Bust
14-15 = 1.5 cms
Join 4-15 for Side seam
15-16 = 1/16 Round Bust + 2 cms
13-17 = go right by 3 cms
17-18 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
18-19 = 7 cms (dart width)
19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19
20-21 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm (dart length)
20-22 =  down by 3 cms

12-23 = 1/8 Round Bust
16-23 = Join with a curve
17-24 & 16-19 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
Join 19-21-24 for dart leg

PART-2: Basque - 
(it is the band which is stitched below the bust)
1-25 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
25-26 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
26-27 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
Join 1-27 in curve to form a Basque

PART-3: Side Piece - 
(it is the part which joins Katori & Sleeve)

SLEEVE -

STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

Placement of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

Marking of Seam Allowance -

Cutting of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you liked this pattern then Pin it!

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 
Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

*********************

How to make Double Katori / Two Piece Katori Blouse with Sleeve?

In my previous posts, I had explained pattern making of Saree Blouse without Sleeve and Saree Blouse with Sleeve. In the next few posts, including this one, I will be sharing pattern making of various styles of saree blouses.

In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a Two piece Katori blouse with sleeve. The Katori blouse is designed based on the natural bust shape of women. The word "Katori" derived from Hindi language means "Cup".

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a Katori blouse with sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. Since the Front of this Blouse is divided in four parts you can use different combinations of fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Complete cutting and stitching of the double katori / two piece katori blouse is shown in the video given below ☺

To make a Katori Blouse with sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.

2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.

3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.

5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.

6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms

3-4 = Join in straight line

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm

6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7

8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

10-11 = Join in straight line

10-12 = Down by 2 cms

0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve

12-3 for Arm curve

12-13 for Shoulder

3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -

* Pattern is shown in 3 STEPS just to explain how the 4 PARTS of Front are separated later in the draft before placement on fabric.
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm

1-2 = 2 cms

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms

4-5  =  Join in straight line

2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6.5 cms

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

7-8 = Join in straight line

7-9 = Down by 2 cms

8-10 = Up by 2.5 cms

0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms (or mark neck depth as desired)

Join 11-12 for Neck curve

4-10-9 for Arm curve

4-6 for Side seam

PART-1: of Katori shape -

12-13 = 1/16 Round Bust (mark on neck curve)
3-14 = 1/10 Round Chest (mark on line of 3-4)
14-15 = Down by 1/16 Round Chest
11-16 = Shoulder to bust point
15-17 & 15-18 = 1/10 Round Chest
6-19 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 13-17-19 with a curve (refer image)
Join 17-16-18 with a curve (refer image)

PART-2: of Katori shape with Dart -
17-20 = Down by 4 cms (mark on the katori curve)
20-21 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)
1-22 = Up by 2 cms
22-23 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
23-24 = 4 cms (dart width)
24-25 = Midpoint of 23-24
20-26 = Midpoint of 20-21
Join 24-26 & 23-26 to form a dart

PART-3: Basque - 
(it is the band which is stitched below the bust)

2-27 = Down by 2 cms
27-28 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2.5 cms
27-29 = 1/10 Round Bust
28-30 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 27-29-30-28-27 to form a Basque

PART-4: Side Piece - 
(it is the part which joins Katori & Sleeve)
6-31 = 1/16 Round Bust
31-32 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)

SLEEVE -

STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

Placement of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

Marking of Seam Allowance -

Cutting of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope this post was helpful to you. If you liked it then Pin it!☺

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook.

Happy Sewing!

Stay connected on 

Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

Google+ / YouTube / Instagram

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