0-1 = Length of Back + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart (dotted lines for dart marking)
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
12-13 = Draw Shoulder length as desired (keep as 5 to 6 cms)
0-14 = Neck depth as desired (as per photo it’s a deep neck).
Join 13-14 for Neck curve, 12-3 for Arm curve, 12-13 for Shoulder, 3-5 for Side seam
# Back draft should be placed on a straight grainline of fabric i.e. parallel to
selvedge.
Cut 2 pieces as the back will have opening with hooks at center
back.
FRONT -0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
1-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
7-8 = Join in straight line
PART-1:
Neck, Arm curve and Shoulder marking -
9-10 = Draw Shoulder length as desired (keep as 5 to 6 cms)
0-11 = Neck depth as desired (as per photo the neck depth is at level of
bust point). It’s a deep neck.
Join 4-9 for Arm curve
Waist dart marking -
5-12 = go up by 1/16 Round Bust
Join 11-12 in a curve as shown
12-13 = 1.5 cms
Join 4-13 for Side seam
12-15 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
15-14 = 7 cms (dart width)
15-16 = Midpoint of 15-14
17-18 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm (dart length)
16-18 = down by 2 cms
Join 14-17-15 and 15-18-14 for dart leg
Side-seam dart marking -
4-19 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
19-20 = 2 cms (dart width)
19-21 = Midpoint of 19-20
21-22 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms (center line of dart should align to bust
point)
Join 19-22-20
PART-2:
Basque -
(it is the band which is stitched below the bust)
1-23 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
23-24 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
24-25 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm (or basque width as desired / may be
around 5 to 6 cms)
Join 1-25 in curve to form a Basque.
# The basque curve should be drawn parallel to 11-12. So the curve may go above point 1 as
shown in above pattern.
# Front with darts should be placed on a straight grainline of fabric i.e.
parallel to selvedge. Cut 2 pieces of the front draft.
# Basque will be cut 1 piece on horizontal fabric grain with 1 to 23 on
folded fabric.