10 August 2016

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making


Garment pattern making is considered as a technical subject. In order to make these patterns easy to understand and execute, some basic abbreviations/short forms are used. These abbreviations should be marked on each piece of paper pattern that is constructed based on the garment design. When these abbreviations are marked accurately on the paper patterns, they help in placement of these patterns on the fabric which will be ultimately cut.

Apart from these basic abbreviations, one should also mention the number of pieces to be cut of each paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve etc.) & the grainline should be marked. These markings give a clear idea to the fabric cutting master regarding how the paper pattern should be placed and cut on fabric. If there is wrong or no indication of grainline and number of pieces marked on the paper pattern, it might become difficult to place and cut the fabric,especially if you are a beginner. 

Yes, these are little markings but they definitely help you from making any big blunders or fabric wastage at later stage of garment making process.☺
Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making
The basic abbreviations to be marked on each piece of garment paper pattern are given below:---
BL = Back Length 
FL = Front Length
Ac. F = Across Front
Ac. B = Across Back
RN = Round Neck
RB = Round Bust
RW = Round Waist
RH = Round Hips
RA = Round Arm
SL = Sleeve Length
NL = Neckline
Sh. = Shoulder
Ch. = Chest
AH = Armhole
SS = Side Seam
YL = Yoke Line
WL = Waist Line
HL = Hem Line
CF = Centre Front
CB = Centre Back
FC = Fold Cloth
FP = Fold Paper
Ext. = Extension [Ext. = Length of Garment – Length of Back]
Blue Dotted = Fold Lines - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Blue Bold = Cutting Lines ________________ 
Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Fabric Grainlines:-
Depending on the pattern requirement, there are 3 basic grainline markings which should be marked on each piece of the paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar etc.). These grainlines indicate how one should place the paper pattern on fabric.

In most of the garments, fabric grain runs vertical i.e. parallel to selvedge. This is because fabric falls more comfortably on vertical grainline. It also holds the creases and folds better than a horizontal fabric grainline.

On the other hand, a horizontal grainline runs parallel to the width of fabric.

bais grainline runs at a diagonal angle to vertical and horizontal grain on fabric and has maximum stretchability. Bias conforms to body contour more than vertical or horizontal grain.

I will be using these abbreviations in my posts where I will try to explain the various Indian womenswear patterns in a step wise method and with drafts wherever required.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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