Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Garment pattern making is considered as a technical subject. In order to make these patterns easy to understand and execute, some basic abbreviations/short forms are used. These abbreviations should be marked on each piece of paper pattern that is constructed based on the garment design. When these abbreviations are marked accurately on the paper patterns, they help in placement of these patterns on the fabric which will be ultimately cut.

Apart from these basic abbreviations, one should also mention the number of pieces to be cut of each paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve etc.) & the grainline should be marked. These markings give a clear idea to the fabric cutting master regarding how the paper pattern should be placed and cut on fabric. If there is wrong or no indication of grainline and number of pieces marked on the paper pattern, it might become difficult to place and cut the fabric,especially if you are a beginner. 

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Yes, these are little markings but they definitely help you from making any big blunders or fabric wastage at later stage of garment making process.☺

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

The basic abbreviations to be marked on each piece of garment paper pattern are given below:---

BL = Back Length 

FL = Front Length

Ac. F = Across Front

Ac. B = Across Back

RN = Round Neck

RB = Round Bust

RW = Round Waist

RH = Round Hips

RA = Round Arm

SL = Sleeve Length

NL = Neckline

Sh. = Shoulder

Ch. = Chest

AH = Armhole

SS = Side Seam

YL = Yoke Line

WL = Waist Line

HL = Hem Line

CF = Centre Front

CB = Centre Back

FC = Fold Cloth

FP = Fold Paper

Ext. = Extension [Ext. = Length of Garment – Length of Back]

Blue Dotted = Fold Lines - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Blue Bold = Cutting Lines ________________ 

Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Fabric Grainlines:-
Depending on the pattern requirement, there are 3 basic grainline markings which should be marked on each piece of the paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar etc.). These grainlines indicate how one should place the paper pattern on fabric.

In most of the garments, fabric grain runs vertical i.e. parallel to selvedge. This is because fabric falls more comfortably on vertical grainline. It also holds the creases and folds better than a horizontal fabric grainline.

On the other hand, a horizontal grainline runs parallel to the width of fabric.

A bais grainline runs at a diagonal angle to vertical and horizontal grain on fabric and has maximum stretchability. Bias conforms to body contour more than vertical or horizontal grain.

I will be using these abbreviations in my posts where I will try to explain the various Indian womenswear patterns in a step wise method and with drafts wherever required.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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