July 10, 2018

How to make an OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with Armhole Princess line? F R E E Pattern

Hello everyone,
I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a stylized an OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with armhole princess line. This pattern was requested by one of the subscribers.

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also a simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree BlouseRaglan Sleeve Saree BlouseBlouse with Basque (Patti)Boat Neck Saree Blouse and Scallop Shaped Neckline.

You can also visit my new YouTube Channel - "Sudha's Apparel Patterns" for more sewing videos. Please Subscribe the Channel if you like it. ☺

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with armhole princess line.

The Blouse pattern has (1) Off-Shoulder, (2) Raglan sleeve and (3) Armhole princess line in Front. This blouse will have a back opening with darts.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylised OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with armhole princess line, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of the blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above the waistline.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.
7. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point. Also called bust height.
8. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collarbone moderately tight.
9. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measuring tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of the arm.
10. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -


0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-14 = 1 cm

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam
Marking of Raglan Piece:-
14-15 = 1/3rd of 13-14
3-16 = 4 to 6 cms
Join 15-16 with line
17 = Midpoint of 15-16
18 = Midpoint of 15-17
19 = Midpoint of 16-17
Draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm at point 18 & 19 (as shown in above image).
Draw raglan sleeve curve from 15-17-16 passing over both perpendiculars of 0.5 cm (refer image).

Marking of Off-Shoulder:-
14-20 = 10 cms
12-21 = 3 to 4 cms
Join 20-21 with a curve (refer above image)
*Trace and separate raglan piece and Back piece with the dart as shown in above image.

FRONT -
STEP- 1
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 & 1-7 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart -
2-8 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
8-9 = 2 cms & 8-10 = 2 cms (dart width)
8-11 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 9-11-10 in slant line for dart

0-12 & 3-13 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
12-13 = Join in straight line
12-14 = Down by 2 cms
13-15 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-16 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-17 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm

Join 16-17 for Neck curve
4-15-14 for Arm curve
4-7-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -
4-20 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
18-19 = 2 cms (dart width)
19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19
20-21 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 18-21-19 in slant line for dart

- Draw a straight line from 11 up towards shoulder to mark 22 (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
22-23 = Mark shoulder to bust point measurement.
23-24 = Mark 1/2 distance between bust point by drawing a horizontal line towards centre front.

Armhole Dart marking -
4-25 = 1/3rd of 4-14
(*measure front armhole curve with measure tape & whatever is "x" measurement, take its 1/3rd)
{for example; if front armhole is 15 cms, then it's 1/3rd will be 5 cms}
- Join 25-23 with a line to mark armhole dart.
- Mark midpoint on this slant line & draw perpendicular of 1 cm on it (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
- Draw a curve from 25 to 23 passing through this perpendicular. The red curve marked in STEP-1 is armhole dart.

STEP - 2
Marking of Armhole Princess Line:-
- Cut on the curve of 25-23 & fold side seam dart (i.e. 18-21-19).
  *When side seam dart is folded, armhole dart slit will open.
STEP - 3
- Extend waist dart till bust point. i.e. join 9-23 and 10-23' to form princess line.

STEP - 4
- Mark & trace armhole princess line pieces i.e.
For Side panel - trace 4-25-23-9-6-4 and
For Centre Panel - trace 25'-14-16-17-2-10-23'-25'.

 
STEP - 5
Marking of Raglan Piece:-
17-26 = 1/3rd of 16-17
4-27 = 4 to 6 cms
Join 26-27 with line
28 = Midpoint of 26-27
29 = Midpoint of 26-28
30 = Midpoint of 27-28
Draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm at point 29 & 30 (as shown in above image).
Draw raglan sleeve curve from 26-28-27 passing over both perpendiculars of 0.5 cm (refer image).

STEP - 6
Marking of Off-Shoulder:-
17-32 = 10 cms
14-31 = 3 to 4 cms
Join 31-32 with a curve (refer above image)
STEP - 7
*Trace & separate raglan piece and Front pieces with armhole princess line as shown in the above image.

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Making of Raglan Sleeve:-
- To make Raglan sleeve, take raglan pieces of Front and Back (as shown in the above image) and place them above sleeve draft (STEP-3) as shown in below image.
- Place both raglan pieces of Front & Back 3 to 4 cms away from the centre of the sleeve curve (refer below image).
- Join both ends of 3 to 4 cms by a slight curve (as shown in below image)
- Armhole (AH) of raglan pieces should face Sleeve curve.

*******************
Final Pieces of OFF Shoulder Raglan sleeve saree blouse with Armhole Princess line
*******************


The fabric used:- For making this style of saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using the basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at a right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.

*Do try this tricky yet beautiful pattern and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

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Happy Sewing!
I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

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