February 15, 2017

How to make Simple Saree Blouse without Sleeve? / Sleeveless Blouse

In my previous posts, I have explained pattern making of Six piece Saree Petticoat and Fish-cut Style Saree Petticoat. In the next few posts, including this one, I will be sharing pattern making of various styles of saree blouses. In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a very basic saree blouse without sleeve.

Fabric used:- For making a basic saree blouse without sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric.

To make a Sleeveless Saree Blouse, all the measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Complete cutting and stitching is shown in my video given below. ☺

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1cm
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5  =  Join in straight line
2-6 & 1-7 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms
Waist Dart -
2-8 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
8-9 = 2 cms & 8-10 = 2 cms (dart width)
8-11 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 9-11-10 in slant line for dart
0-12 & 3-13 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
12-13 = Join in straight line
12-14 = Down by 2 cms
13-15 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-16 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-17 = 1/6 Round Bust (or neck depth as required)

Join 16-17 for Neck curve
4-15-14 for Arm curve
4-7-6 for Side seam
Side seam Dart -
4-18 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
18-19 = 2 cms (dart width)
19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19
20-21 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 18-21-19 in slant line for dart
Centre Front Dart -
3-22 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
22-23 = 1.5 cms (dart width)
23-24 = Midpoint of 22-23
24-25 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 22-25-23 in slant line for dart

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.
Placement of FRONT & BACK drafts of Blouse on Fabric -

Marking of Seam Allowance -

Cutting FRONT & BACK of Blouse -

* It is a very basic sleeveless blouse pattern. However, once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.☺

I hope this post was helpful to you. If you liked it then Pin it!☺
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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Happy Sewing!

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