December 8, 2016

How to make Fish-cut style Saree Petticoat?

A Fish-cut style saree petticoat is fitted from waist to knee and has flare at hem. It is a slimming petticoat style which helps to drape the saree by highlighting the hip contours and also enhances the flare at hem. For making this style of petticoat the most preferred fabrics are satin or silk. However, if you are a beginner prefer pure cotton fabric.
Unlike the Saree Petticoat, you can use a contrasting color fabric to make this petticoat. It has an adjustable drawstring at waist with no additional frill stitched at the hem of petticoat. Sarees made from Chiffon, Georgette, Net, Silk or Satin are draped beautifully on fish-cut style petticoat.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

I have shown pattern making of a Fish-cut style saree petticoat which has eight panels and a waist band to insert drawstring. If you are beginner prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this petticoat. Length of fabric should be 2.5 meters and width can be 36" (for Small / Medium size) & 44" / 48" (for Large / XL size). 
Measurements required: (in inches)
Low Round waist - Measured from 1½" below the naval point.
Round Hips - * Hips are usually measured 6-8" lower to waist.*
Petticoat length
Low waist to Hip length
Low waist to knee length
Waist band width - 6"
Steps for drafting Eight Pieces / Eight Panels: 
Line 1 = 1/8 Low round waist + 1/4".
Line 2 = 1/8 Round Hip + 1/4".
Line 3 = Length of Petticoat - waist band width (i.e. 6").
Line 4 = Low waist to Hip length.
Line 6 = Low waist to Knee length.
Line 5 = Line 2.
Line 7 = Double of line 1 or as desired.
- Join outer points of these lines & curve at hip & knee.
- Seam allowance will be 1/4".
Drafting of Waist band:
- After you have stitched the 8 panels of petticoat, measure the round waist and make above given draft of waist band.
- A-C & B-D = Waist band width is 6"
- A-B & C-D = Petticoat Round waist + 2"

Some Tips when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*I have also shown how to lay the draft on fabric in above image.

I hope this post was helpful to you.
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