December 8, 2017

How to make High Neck Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern

Hello everyone,
I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a stylized High neckline saree blouse with armhole princess line. This pattern was requested by one of the subscribers who had sent me below given design for reference.
Subscriber requested design
Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also a simple stylised Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse.

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized High Neck Saree Blouse.

High neck saree blouse pattern will have armhole princess line in front and Chinese collar with a stripe design around neckline. This blouse will have a back opening.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylised High Neck Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.
7. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point. Also called bust height.
8. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collar bone moderately tight.

Steps of drafting:- 


0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-14 = 1 cm

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam

0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 & 1-7 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart -
2-8 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
8-9 = 2 cms & 8-10 = 2 cms (dart width)
8-11 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 9-11-10 in slant line for dart

0-12 & 3-13 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
12-13 = Join in straight line
12-14 = Down by 2 cms
13-15 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-16 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-17 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm

Join 16-17 for Neck curve
4-15-14 for Arm curve
4-7-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -
4-20 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
18-19 = 2 cms (dart width)
19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19
20-21 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 18-21-19 in slant line for dart

- Draw straight line from 11 up towards shoulder to mark 22 (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
22-23 = Mark shoulder to bust point measurement.
23-24 = Mark 1/2 distance between bust point by drawing horizontal line towards centre front.

Armhole Dart marking -
4-25 = 1/3rd of 4-14
(*measure front armhole curve with measure tape & whatever is "x" measurement, take it's 1/3rd)
{for example; if front armhole is 15 cms, then it's 1/3rd will be 5 cms}
- Join 25-23 with a line to mark armhole dart.
- Mark midpoint on this slant line & draw perpendicular of 1 cm on it (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
- Draw a curve from 25 to 23 passing through this perpendicular. Red curve marked in STEP-1 is armhole dart.

STEP - 2
Marking of Armhole Princess Line -
- Cut on curve of 25-23 & fold side seam dart (i.e. 18-21-19).
  *When side seam dart is folded, armhole dart slit will open.

STEP - 3
- Extend waist dart till bust point. i.e. join 9-23 and 10-23' to form princess line.

STEP - 4
- Mark & trace armhole princess line pieces i.e.
For Side panel - trace 4-25-23-9-6-4 and
For Centre Panel - trace 25'-14-16-17-2-10-23'-25'.
STEP - 5
Marking of Neckline on Centre Panel -
- Mark 1/2 of shoulder and from there go slant towards centre front of blouse depending on desired neck depth (refer STEP-5 FRONT image)
- Mark a square neckline from 1/2 shoulder to neck depth.
* tip: when marking a square neckline draw slightly slant line down from shoulder and not straight down. This way your final neckline will fall as a square shape on body.

STEP - 6
Making of Chinese collar -
1-2 = 1/2 Round Neck + 0.5 cm
1-3 = 3 cm
1-2 = 3-4
1-3 = 2-4
Join 2-4 & 3-4 to make a collar draft.

Fabric strips between Chinese collar and square neckline -
- Fabric strips with ready width of 1 cm will be stitched between neckline and collar.
- Number of strips to be stitched will depend on the neck shape and front neck measurement.
- Detailed explanation will be given in the stitching video.

Fabric used:- For making a High Neck saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

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Happy Sewing!

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