February 15, 2017

How to make Simple Saree Blouse with Sleeve? FREE Pattern

In my previous posts, I have explained pattern making of Six piece Saree Petticoat and Fish-cut Style Saree Petticoat. In the next few posts, including this one, I will be sharing pattern making of various styles of saree blouses. In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a very basic saree blouse with sleeve.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!


Fabric used:- For making a basic saree blouse without sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric.

To make a Saree Blouse with sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.

6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.


Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam

FRONT -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5  =  Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms
Waist Dart -
2-7 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
7-8 = 4 cms (dart width)
8-9 = Midpoint of 7-8
9-10 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 8-10-7
0-11 & 3-12 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
11-12 = Join in straight line
11-13 = Down by 2 cms
12-14 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-15 = 1/10 Round Bust
3-16 = 2 cms (or neck depth as required)
Join 15-16 for Neck curve
4-14-13 for Arm curve
4-6 for Side seam
Side seam Dart -
4-17 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
17-18 = 2 cms (dart width)
18-19 = Midpoint of 18-19
19-20 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 17-20-18
Centre Front Dart -
3-21 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
21-22 = 1.5 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 21-24-22

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.


Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

* It is a very basic blouse pattern with sleeve. However, once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.☺

I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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2 comments:

  1. HI... very helpful post for people like me who are beginners. I finished drafting the pattern but now I am confused if I have to leave additional seam allowance while transferring the pattern on to the fabric. Plz help. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, thank you for your feedback. Yes you have to keep a seam allowance when placing on fabric.

      You can refer my other post of simple sleeveless blouse
      http://exploringdesigns.blogspot.co.uk/2017/02/saree-blouse-without-sleeve.html?m=1
      In this post I have shown complete Placement, cutting and stitching. It will be same only you have to attach sleeve.

      For sleeve cutting and stitching I have another post of double katori blouse.you may refer that.
      http://exploringdesigns.blogspot.co.uk/2017/02/katori-blouse-with-sleeve.html?m=1

      Hope this helps.
      Let me know if you have any queries.
      Best Regards and happy sewing

      Delete

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