August 31, 2016

How to make a simple Churidaar? FREE Pattern

Churidaar is a leg wear which is usually combined with a Kameez/ Anarkali/Short Kurta. Unlike Salwaar, it is a more fitted garment around thighs, knees, calf and ankle. Since at the ankle, this garment forms "churis"/ gathers it is named as Churidaar. In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Churidaar including seam allowance. As you can see in the given sketch, this Churidaar is without waist band and so it will have a belt stitched to it to insert the cord/drawstring. Width of this belt will be 2". This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Churidaar for first time.


* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Draft of Churidaar
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length from Waist to floor; Round waist; Round hip; Round Knee; Round Calf; Round Ankle; Crotch length
How to make a simple Churidaar?
Steps:
A-B = Length from Waist to floor - belt width of 2"
B-C = 10-12" for gathers (churis)
C-D = 1" for hem
A-H = 1/3 Round Hips + 3"
A-E = Crotch length - belt width of 2" + 2.5" (ease)
E-G = A-H. Join G-H
G-F = 1/12 Round hips + 1". 
Draw crotch curve joining H-F (see image)
I = For knee point, take 1/2 distance from crotch to original length (i.e. from E to B).
I-I1 = Mark knee point as 1/2 Round knee + 1"
J = Between knee point & gathers point  (i.e. from I to B), mark midpoint as calf point. 
J-J1 = Mark 1/2 Round Calf + 1" 
Join the points F-I1-J1 connecting ankle, calf, knee, hip with a curve.

Some Tips:
1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 44".
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. As Churidaar is a fitted garment, we have to place draft on fabric that is folded diagonally at an angle of 45 degrees.
However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you. 
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
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*******************
You might also like to learn:-

1] Kameez pattern

2] Salwaar pattern

How to make a simple Salwaar? FREE Pattern

Salwaar is a leg wear which is usually combined with a Kameez/ Anarkali/Short Kurta. In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Salwaar with waist band including seam allowance. This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Salwaar for first time.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Draft of Salwaar:
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Salwaar; Round hips; Round Crotch; Waist to Hips; Round Ankle (for Poncha)
How to make a simple Salwaar?
Steps:
A-B = Length of Salwaar - Waist band width (i.e. 8") + 2" (ease) + 1" (seam allowance)
B-C = 1.5"
B-G = 1/2 Round Ankle (Poncha) + 1.5" (ease)
C-H = Same as B-G
A-D = 1/2 width of material
D-E = 1/2 Round Crotch - Waist band width (i.e. 8") + 2" (ease) + 1" (seam allowance)
E-F = Go inwards by 1 to 1.5"
G-F & G-H = Join with a slant line and E-F with a slight curve (refer image)

Draft of Waist Band:
Steps:
A-B = Waist to Hips + 2" (cord case) + 1" (seam allowance)
A-C = 1/2 Round Hips + 3 to 4" (ease)
Join B-D & C-D with straight lines

Some Tips:
1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 36" (for Small / Medium size) or 44" (for Large / XL size)
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

********************
You might also like to learn:-
1] Kameez pattern

2] Churidaar pattern

How to make a simple Kameez / Kurti? FREE Pattern

Kameez is a top/shirt sewn with lot of variations in its patterns. This top is usually combined with a leg wear like Salwaar or Churidaar or Pajama or even Trouser. Kameez can be stitched with variations in its sleeves, necklines, garment lengths, yokes etc.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!


In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Kameez draft without any darts. This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Kameez for first time.

Draft of Kameez:
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Kameez; Shoulder width; Round Neck; Round Chest; 
Neck depth of Front = 6" & Back = 3"(standard measurements);
Length till Waist; Length till Hip; Round Waist; Round Hip
How to make a simple Kameez / Kurti?

Steps:
A-B = Length of Kameez
A-H=Back Neck depth (standard size is 3")
A-I=Front Neck depth (standard size is 6")
A-C = 1/6 Round Chest + 1"
A-J = Length till Waist
A-L = Length till Hip
A-E = 1/2 Shoulder width
A-G = 1/6 Round Neck + 1/2"
C-D=1/4 Round Chest + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4" 
J-K = 1/4 Round Waist + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4"
L-M = 1/4 Round Hip + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4"
(Add ease as required)
B-N = L-M measurement + 4"
N-P = 1"
- Draw perpendicular 'c' on the line of C-D and touching E.
- E-F = 1/2". Join G to F for the shoulder.
- Mark 'd' as midpoint of F & 'c'. Join D to F with a curve passing through 'd' as shown.
- Mark 'a' as midpoint of D & 'd'. Mark 'b' 1/2" below from 'a' & draw another curve from D to F passing through 'b' & 'd'.
- Inner curve passing through 'b' is Front Armhole &
- Outer curve passing through 'a' is Back Armhole.
- Join G to I with a curve to form Front neck and join G to H with a curve to form Back neck.
- Join O to P as shown in diagram.


Sleeve draft for Kameez:
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Sleeve; Round Chest; Round Arm

Steps:
A-B = Length of Sleeve
A-C = 1/12 Round Chest + 1/2"
C-D = 1/6 Round Chest + 1"
B-E = 1/2 Round Arm + 1/2"
- Mark 'a' as midpoint of A to D.
- Join A to D with a curve passing through 'a' (refer diagram).
- 'b' is the midpoint of 'a' and D.
- Take 'c' 1/2" below from 'b' and draw another curve (refer diagram).
- Some Tip: Measure the armhole curves of Front & Back on the Kurta draft. Whatever is the "x" measurement, it should be equal to the armhole curves marked for sleeve draft. Checking that the armhole curves of Kurta draft and sleeve draft are same, will help while stitching the arm curves without any extra ease.

Some Tips:
1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 36" (for Small / Medium size) or 44" (for Large / XL size)
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.


I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

*********************
You might also like to learn:-
1] Churidaar pattern

2] Salwaar pattern

August 22, 2016

Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts

The Basic Skirt draft of women's wear explained in this post has two waist darts in Front and two at Back. These darts eliminate the extra ease / fullness of fabric and help to drape the fabric crease free on waist to hip section. 

To make this draft you require following measurements (in centimeters):- Round waist, Round hip, Waist to Hip and Waist to knee. You can refer to my previous post which explains in detail how to take body measurements in women's wear

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Some Tip: Best way to make this bodice quickly is by following below given steps,do all the calculations first, write them next to each step and then start making the bodice pattern.
Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts
BACK:
Square down and right to 0.
0-1 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across
0-2 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across
2-3 = 1/4 Round hip + 1.5 cms.
0-4 & 1-5 = Same measurement as 2-3, square across each. Join 4-3-5 with straight line.
0-6 = 1/4 Round waist + 1 cm.
6-7 =  move up by 1 cm., join 0 and 7 with a curve (see image)
Join 6-3 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)
5-8 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)
Join 6-3-8 for side seam.
Dark Marking:
18 = Mark midpoint of 0-7, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.
Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 18. 

FRONT:
Square down and left to 9.
9-10 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across
9-11 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across
11-12 = 1/4 Round hip + 2 cms.
9-13 & 10-14 = Same measurement as 11-12, square across each. Join 13-12-14 with straight line.
9-15 = 1/4 Round waist + 1.5 cms.
15-16 =  move up by 1 cm., join 16 and 9 with a curve (see image)
Join 15-12 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)
14-17 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)
Join 15-12-17 for side seam.
Dark Marking:
19 = Mark midpoint of 9-16, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.
Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 19. 
--------------------------------
Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts
Some Tip: *Once your Basic Skirt draft is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching this pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric before you proceed to use this draft as a base for all your future garment patterns.*

Just place & cut the skirt draft on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping the centre back & centre front on fold and seam allowance of 1 cm. at waist lines & side seams; 
stitch all the darts (i.e. 2 waist darts each of both front & back);
stitch any one side seam, wear this rough stitched pattern over your under garment and check its fitting. 
You can temporarily pin the other side unstitched side seam.

*Best fit of the basic skirt is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern and back waist darts are ending at highest point of hip curve.*

I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
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******************
You might also like to learn:-

August 15, 2016

Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts

There are various ways / methods of making a basic bodice for a women's wear. Some have shoulder dart and waist dart in Front and only waist dart in Back OR only big waist dart in Front and waist dart in Back OR shoulder and waist dart in Front and also in Back etc. These basic darts help to eliminate the extra ease of the garment making it fall smoothly on the body contours.

On the other hand, there are Basic Bodice without any darts. However, since the extra ease is not eliminated we can see lot of crease lines at armhole, neckline, side seams of such garments.

In this post, I have made a basic bodice which has helped me to get a proper fit eliminating the extra ease / creases on my garment. I have made this basic bodice by following "IL Modellismo, the pattern making book". However, I have added few markings wherever necessary (according to me). This basic bodice is with shoulder dart and waist dart in Front and waist dart in Back. I have taken body measurements in 'centimeters' when I made below given basic bodice pattern. Though if you already have / follow a basic bodice pattern (either in inches or centimeters) that is easier to make and moreover gives you best bodice fit, I suggest you to stick to it.☺

Before, starting with making this Basic Bodice, do not forget to make a list in your sewing book of all your personal body measurements. You require the following measurements (in centimeters):- Height (from head to floor), Size (1/2 Round Chest), Round Bust, Round Waist, Shoulder Width, Back Waist Length, Front Waist Length, Bust Height and Breast Distance.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

You can refer to my previous post which explains in detail "how to take body measurements".
Some Tip: Best way to make this bodice quickly is by following below given steps,do all the calculations first, write them next to each step and then start making the bodice pattern.
Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts
BACK
Begin with top left corner of a square. This is point A.
A-B = 1/24 size + 0.2 cm. (back neckline)
* Size means 1/2 Round Chest. For example; if Round Chest is 88 cms., then Size is 44 cms.
A-B1 = Square down 4.5 cms.
A-C = Armhole depth measurement = 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease allowance
(*The ease allowance 1.7 cms. may vary; it can be increased to ease movement and add fullness to the sleeve or even decreased according to the garment style line.)
* Armhole depth measurement means Arm circumference/ Round arm / Scye depth. For this pattern it is calculated using a formula (i.e. 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease) and not measured on body.
A-D = Back Waist length
A-G = 1/6 size. With the curve join points G-B for the neck curve
A-H = 1/2 back width (i.e. shoulder width)
C-C1 = 1/4 Round Bust – 1 cm + 2 cms ease allowance
D-D1 = 1/4 Round Waist – 1 cm + 3 cms. (Dart) + 2 cms ease allowance.
Join points C1-D1 (this is side seam)
H-I = Perpendicular to C-C1, same measurement as A-C
H-L = Square down 4.5 cms on line of H-I, same as A-B1. Join B1-L
B1-L1 = 1/2 back shoulder width. Join points G-L1 to create shoulder length.
I-M = Square up 5 cms and square right 0.3 cm; with a curve join points L1-M-C1 to draw the armhole
Dart marking:
D-R = 1/2 of D-D1
R-R1 = Draw perpendicular from R to mark R1 on line of C-C1
R-R2 = Square up 14 cm on R-R1
R-R3 = R-R4 = 1.5 cms. Join points R3-R2-R4 to mark dart.

FRONT
Begin with top right corner of a square. This is point A1.
A1-C3 = Armhole depth measurement = 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease allowance
(*The ease allowance 1.7 cms. may vary; it can be increased to ease movement and add fullness to the sleeve or even decreased according to the garment style line.)
A1-D3 = Back Waist length
D3-A2 = Front Waist length
A2-B2 = 1/6 size + 1 cm. (neckline depth)
A2-G4 = 1/6 size. With the curve join points G4-B2 (front neckline)
A2-H1 = 1/2 back width – 1cm
C3-C2 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms ease allowance
D3-D2 = 1/4 Round Waist + 3 cms. (Dart) + 2 cms ease allowance. Join points C2-D2 (side seam)
H1-I1 = Perpendicular to C3-C2, same measurement as A2-C3
H1-L4 = Square down 7.5 cms on line of H1-I1
G4-L5 = Measure the shoulder length G-L1 on back bodice. Draw G4-L5 left to L4.
*Front and back shoulder length should be same.
A2-N = Bust height
N-N1 = 1/2 breast distance
G4-G1 = Starting at point G4 move to the left towards L5 by 1/10 size + 0.5 cm.
G1-G2 = Square up 1.6 cms on right angles at G1 on the shoulder line to mark G2.
Join to points G2- G4.
G2-N1 = Join with a straight line to the bust point
N1-N2 = Square up 7.5 cms on line of G2-N1 and move left 2 cms at right angles to the dart line and mark point N3.
G3-N1 = Measure G2-N1 and use this measurement to draw a line from N1 up to G3 passing through N3 so as to complete the dart. Dart legs are always the same length.
G3-L2 = G-L1 (back shoulder length) – G4-G2.
Make perpendicular of G3-L2 to dart line of G3-N1. Join G3-G2 to mark shoulder dart.
I1-M2 = Square up 5 cms on line of H1-I1
M2-M1 = Move left 2 cms. (This measurement varies according to the dart depth)
With a curve join points L2-M1-C2 to draw the armhole
Dart marking:
D3-R5 = Equal length of N-N1
R5-R6 = Draw perpendicular to D2-D3. From point N1 square down 2 cms. to mark R6
R-5R8 = R5-R7 = 1.5 cms. Join points R5-R6-R7-R8 to mark dart.
Women's Wear Basic Bodice {Till Waist} - With Darts
I know there are a lot of markings :) but if you follow the sequence /steps properly am sure you will get a perfect fit of basic bodice using your personal measurement chart.
------------------------------------
Some Tip: *Once your Basic Bodice is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching this pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric before you proceed to use this bodice as a base for all your future garment patterns.*

Just place & cut the bodice pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping the centre back & centre front on fold and seam allowance of 1 cm. at neckline, shoulder, armhole & side seam; 

stitch all the darts (i.e. 2 shoulder darts and 4 waist darts of both front & back);
stitch any one side shoulder & side seam, wear this rough stitched pattern over your under garment and check its fitting. 
You can temporarily pin the other side unstitched shoulder and side seam.

*Best fit of the basic bodice is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern and both shoulder darts and waist darts are ending at least 2 cms. away from the bust points.*


I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
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********************
You might also like to learn:-

August 10, 2016

How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

In the dress making art, taking accurate measurements is of vital importance.
All the measurements must be taken with great care and precise results.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Some Tip:- Whenever you are taking any round body measurements (i.e. Round Neck, Round Bust, Round Hip etc.) always keep two finger space while holding the measure tape around the body. By keeping this two finger space, you add little ease to your measurements.

* It is very important that you wear your best fit under garments in order to get the most accurate measurements. Wear a knitted legging and basic fit t-shirt which highlights the body contours.
How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?
The round chest measurement is considered the principle measurement because all the relative measures are determined from this measure only. In case of skirts, trousers and shorts, the seat or round hip measurement is important.

Use the following instructions and diagrams as guide to take measurements of the body:
How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?
1. Neck Circumference (Round Neck): Measure around the neck touching front collar bone moderately tight.

2. Chest Circumference (Round Chest): This is the first measurement. Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
*This measurement is considered to be the most important one, since half of chest circumference is the right size of a person. For example:- Chest Circumference 88 cms. = Size 44.

3. Bust Circumference (Round Bust): Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.

4. Waist Circumference (Round Waist): Measure around the body on the narrowest part of the waist. Make sure that the measurement is comfortable but with liberal tightness.
Some Tip: If you can’t find the waist line then tie a string around the waist and have him or her bend sideways – the string will roll to the natural waistline.

5. Hip Circumference (Round Hips): Measure around the widest part of the pelvis. It is measured approximately 21 cms below the waist line.


6. Sleeve Length: Slightly bend the arm and measure from shoulder bone to wrist.
* When you measure from shoulder to elbow it's called Elbow Length.

7. Bust Height (Height of the Bust Protrusion): Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.

8. Breast Distance (Distance between Bust Protrusion): It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

9. Chest (Across Front): Measure the front chest approx. 7-8 cms down from the neck point at the centre front from armhole to armhole.

10. Back Width (Across Back): Measure the back width 15 cms down from nape of the neck at the centre back. Measure from armhole to armhole (to find back neck bone, bend the head forward and you can feel the first neck bone).

11. Back Shoulder Width: Measure distance between the two shoulder tips.

12. Shoulder length: Measure from the neck point to the shoulder bone.

13. Back Waist Length (Length of Back) (Nape to Waist): Measure from the back neck bone at the centre back to the string tied round the waist line.

14. Front Waist Length (Length of Front) (Front Shoulder to Waist): Measure from the centre of the front shoulder passing over the bust point to the waistline.

15. Arm Circumference (Round Arm) (Scye depth): Move the measure tape starting from shoulder bone (front side) – below the armpit – back towards same shoulder bone (back side).

16. Bicep Circumference (Top Arm): The arm must be bent. Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

17. Wrist Circumference (Round Wrist): Measure around the wrist with slight ease.

18. Dress Length: Measure from shoulder at neck to knee level passing over the bust point and waistline.

19. Trouser Length: Measure the distance from waist to feet.

20. Skirt Length (Knee Length): Measure distance from waistline to knee.

21. Waist to Hip (Body Rise): Measure from waistline to hipline. 
Some Tip:- Make the person (one who is getting measured) sit on a chair with comfortable erect posture and then measure from waist line to the chair base as shown in the below image.

22. Thigh Circumference (Round Thigh): Measure around the highest area of thigh.

23. Knee Circumference (Round Knee): Measure around the knee.

24. Ankle Circumference (Round Ankle) (Round Bottom Measurement): Measure around the ankle or measure round the bottom of pants.
* This measurement keeps varying according to the fashion or personal taste.
How to Take Body Measurements in Women's Wear?

25. Crotch Length: (Round Crotch): Measure by holding the measure tape from centre front waistline, then passing this tape in-between the legs and further moving it towards the centre back waistline.

These are the basic standard measurements required to make a paper pattern or draft of a womenswear garment.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making


Garment pattern making is considered as a technical subject. In order to make these patterns easy to understand and execute, some basic abbreviations/short forms are used. These abbreviations should be marked on each piece of paper pattern that is constructed based on the garment design. When these abbreviations are marked accurately on the paper patterns, they help in placement of these patterns on the fabric which will be ultimately cut.

Apart from these basic abbreviations, one should also mention the number of pieces to be cut of each paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve etc.) & the grainline should be marked. These markings give a clear idea to the fabric cutting master regarding how the paper pattern should be placed and cut on fabric. If there is wrong or no indication of grainline and number of pieces marked on the paper pattern, it might become difficult to place and cut the fabric,especially if you are a beginner. 

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Yes, these are little markings but they definitely help you from making any big blunders or fabric wastage at later stage of garment making process.☺
Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making
The basic abbreviations to be marked on each piece of garment paper pattern are given below:---
BL = Back Length 
FL = Front Length
Ac. F = Across Front
Ac. B = Across Back
RN = Round Neck
RB = Round Bust
RW = Round Waist
RH = Round Hips
RA = Round Arm
SL = Sleeve Length
NL = Neckline
Sh. = Shoulder
Ch. = Chest
AH = Armhole
SS = Side Seam
YL = Yoke Line
WL = Waist Line
HL = Hem Line
CF = Centre Front
CB = Centre Back
FC = Fold Cloth
FP = Fold Paper
Ext. = Extension [Ext. = Length of Garment – Length of Back]
Blue Dotted = Fold Lines - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Blue Bold = Cutting Lines ________________ 
Basic Abbreviations used in Garment Pattern Making

Fabric Grainlines:-
Depending on the pattern requirement, there are 3 basic grainline markings which should be marked on each piece of the paper pattern (i.e. front, back, sleeve, collar etc.). These grainlines indicate how one should place the paper pattern on fabric.

In most of the garments, fabric grain runs vertical i.e. parallel to selvedge. This is because fabric falls more comfortably on vertical grainline. It also holds the creases and folds better than a horizontal fabric grainline.

On the other hand, a horizontal grainline runs parallel to the width of fabric.

bais grainline runs at a diagonal angle to vertical and horizontal grain on fabric and has maximum stretchability. Bias conforms to body contour more than vertical or horizontal grain.

I will be using these abbreviations in my posts where I will try to explain the various Indian womenswear patterns in a step wise method and with drafts wherever required.

I hope this post was helpful to you. Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

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I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

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