The Basic Skirt draft of women's wear explained in this post has two waist darts in Front and two at Back. These darts eliminate the extra ease / fullness of fabric and help to drape the fabric crease free on waist to hip section.
To make this draft you require following measurements (in centimeters):- Round waist, Round hip, Waist to Hip and Waist to knee. You can refer to my previous post which explains in detail how to take body measurements in women's wear
* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!
Some Tip: Best way to make this bodice quickly is by following below given steps,do all the calculations first, write them next to each step and then start making the bodice pattern.
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| Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts |
Square down and right to 0.
0-1 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across
0-2 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across
2-3 = 1/4 Round hip + 1.5 cms.
0-4 & 1-5 = Same measurement as 2-3, square across each. Join 4-3-5 with straight line.
0-6 = 1/4 Round waist + 1 cm.
6-7 = move up by 1 cm., join 0 and 7 with a curve (see image)
Join 6-3 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)
5-8 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)
Join 6-3-8 for side seam.
Dark Marking:
18 = Mark midpoint of 0-7, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.
Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 18.
FRONT:
Square down and left to 9.
9-10 = Waist to knee + 1 cm., square across
9-11 = Waist to hip + 1 cm., square across
11-12 = 1/4 Round hip + 2 cms.
9-13 & 10-14 = Same measurement as 11-12, square across each. Join 13-12-14 with straight line.
9-15 = 1/4 Round waist + 1.5 cms.
15-16 = move up by 1 cm., join 16 and 9 with a curve (see image)
Join 15-12 to mark hip curve by moving outwards by 0.5 cm from centre. (see image)
14-17 = move up by 1 cm to mark hem line curve (see image)
Join 15-12-17 for side seam.
Dark Marking:
19 = Mark midpoint of 9-16, square down from this point with length of dart as 8 cms.
Construct a dart of 1.5 cms. on point 19.
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| Women's Wear Basic Skirt {Waist to Knee} - With Darts |
Some Tip: *Once your Basic Skirt draft is made on paper, do check its fitting by stitching this pattern on a basic cotton muslin fabric before you proceed to use this draft as a base for all your future garment patterns.*
Just place & cut the skirt draft on a basic cotton muslin fabric by keeping the centre back & centre front on fold and seam allowance of 1 cm. at waist lines & side seams;
stitch all the darts (i.e. 2 waist darts each of both front & back);
stitch any one side seam, wear this rough stitched pattern over your under garment and check its fitting.
You can temporarily pin the other side unstitched side seam.
*Best fit of the basic skirt is when there are no creases / gathers formed on this stitched rough pattern and back waist darts are ending at highest point of hip curve.*
I hope this post was helpful to you.
I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺
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