31 August 2016

How to make a simple Kameez / Kurti?

Kameez is a top/shirt sewn with lot of variations in its patterns. This top is usually combined with a leg wear like Salwaar or Churidaar or Pajama or even Trouser. Kameez can be stitched with variations in its sleeves, necklines, garment lengths, yokes etc.

In this post, I have shown pattern making of the very basic Kameez draft without any darts. This stepwise pattern is ideal to begin with, if you are a beginner or making a Kameez for first time.

Draft of Kameez:
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Kameez; Shoulder width; Round Neck; Round Chest; 
Neck depth of Front = 6" & Back = 3"(standard measurements);
Length till Waist; Length till Hip; Round Waist; Round Hip
How to make a simple Kameez / Kurti?

Steps:
A-B = Length of Kameez
A-H=Back Neck depth (standard size is 3")
A-I=Front Neck depth (standard size is 6")
A-C = 1/6 Round Chest + 1"
A-J = Length till Waist
A-L = Length till Hip
A-E = 1/2 Shoulder width
A-G = 1/6 Round Neck + 1/2"
C-D=1/4 Round Chest + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4" 
J-K = 1/4 Round Waist + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4"
L-M = 1/4 Round Hip + 1" or 1/2" or 1/4"
(Add ease as required)
B-N = L-M measurement + 4"
N-P = 1"
- Draw perpendicular 'c' on the line of C-D and touching E.
- E-F = 1/2". Join G to F for the shoulder.
- Mark 'd' as midpoint of F & 'c'. Join D to F with a curve passing through 'd' as shown.
- Mark 'a' as midpoint of D & 'd'. Mark 'b' 1/2" below from 'a' & draw another curve from D to F passing through 'b' & 'd'.
- Inner curve passing through 'b' is Front Armhole &
- Outer curve passing through 'a' is Back Armhole.
- Join G to I with a curve to form Front neck and join G to H with a curve to form Back neck.
- Join O to P as shown in diagram.
Sleeve draft for Kameez:
Measurements required: (in inches)
Length of Sleeve; Round Chest; Round Arm

Steps:
A-B = Length of Sleeve
A-C = 1/12 Round Chest + 1/2"
C-D = 1/6 Round Chest + 1"
B-E = 1/2 Round Arm + 1/2"
- Mark 'a' as midpoint of A to D.
- Join A to D with a curve passing through 'a' (refer diagram).
- 'b' is the midpoint of 'a' and D.
- Take 'c' 1/2" below from 'b' and draw another curve (refer diagram).
- Some Tip: Measure the armhole curves of Front & Back on the Kurta draft. Whatever is the "x" measurement, it should be equal to the armhole curves marked for sleeve draft. Checking that the armhole curves of Kurta draft and sleeve draft are same, will help while stitching the arm curves without any extra ease.

Some Tips:
1. Prefer pure cotton woven fabric if you are a beginner with 2.5 meters length & width of 36" (for Small / Medium size) or 44" (for Large / XL size)
2. If you are marking the pattern draft directly on fabric, then first straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
3. Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
4. However, if you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper first and then pin it to fabric.

I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.

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You might also like to learn:-
1] Churidaar pattern

2] Salwaar pattern

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