November 1, 2016

How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

A princess line dress is a fitted garment that has seam lines crossing over the bust point, replacing darts. As these princess lines absorb fullness of dart within stitch lines  and control the fit of garment, they are also called dart equivalents.

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In this post, I have shown step-wise pattern making of Kameez with Armhole Princess line in Front & Back.

STEP-1: Tracing the Basic Blocks

STEP-2: Shaping Neckline & Armhole, Adding flare & Princess line

  • Neckline Shaping-
- To shape the neckline as per required pattern, go inward from neck-shoulder point by 2 or 2.5 cms.
- From that point, mark the neck depth point (using a scale) on Centre Front of bodice.
(*follow the red color lines shown in below image)
- Join these two points based on required neck pattern.

  • Armhole Deepening-
- Deepen the armhole by 1.5 cms from armhole-side seam point in both Front & Back bodice.
- Draw a new arm curve running parallel to original arm curve and merge as shown in image.

  • Adding flare to Hemline-
- For flare, move outwards from hemline by 5 to 15 cms. depending on how much flare is required.
- Using a scale, move up towards hip line, join this flare point to hip curve (i.e. merge slant line into curve).
- At the hem and side seam corner, move up on slant line by 2cms (see image) and give a slight curve shaping to the hem.

  • Marking Armhole Princess line- 
(*follow the purple color lines shown in below image)
(Front Bodice) - Slightly curve the armhole dart.
- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.
(Back Bodice) - Mark  slightly curve slit line by going 1/3rd on armhole at armhole-side seam intersection point.
- From bottom of the waist dart, draw a straight line moving down towards the hemline.
* Shape the side seam contours at the waist to hip region with a slight smooth curve.
How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?
STEP-3: Cutting the Princess line Panels
  • Cut along the purple color lines shown in above STEP-2 image to separate the Centre Panels from Side Panels.
  • You have to cut the pattern along the shaped neckline, deepened armhole, added flare, shaped side seams and the marked armhole princess lines.
How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line?

PUFF SLEEVE PATTERN

  • I have combined a Puff sleeve pattern with this Armhole Princess line Kameez.
  • Puff sleeve have fullness added in the form of gathers at the sleeve capline (i.e. top curve of basic sleeve) and at sleeve hemline. Puff sleeve can be of any length & it's fullness can be more or less as desired.
Some Tips:-

  1. *When making Basic Sleeve pattern always measure the deepened arm curve of Front & Back bodice accurately with a measure tape.
  2. *In order to ensure perfect fit of a sleeve, always make the sleeve draft after you have finished making the Front & Back patterns of your garment.
How to make Kameez with Armhole Princess line and Puffed Sleeve?
Step-1: Mark slit line:-
- Use pattern of Basic Sleeve with your desired length for this Armhole Princess line Kameez. I have used Sleeve length as 15 cms.
- Mark slit line at centre of sleeve running straight from sleeve cap to hem. (refer above image)

Step-2: 

  • Add fullness for gathers:-
- Cut along the marked slit line to separate the front & back of sleeve.
- On a separate paper, draw an approx. perpendicular. (*follow fine black lines shown in image)
- Place the separated front & back of sleeve on either side of perpendicular at an equal distance of 3 to 6 cms (i.e. "x") (fullness as required).

  • Shape the sleeve capline & hemline:-
- Join the sleeve cap & hem in centre with fine black lines as shown in image. From these lines, go up & down by 1.5 cms to mark new sleeve capline & shaped hemline.
- To mark the new sleeve capline, mark midpoints (1/2) of front & back sleeve blocks (refer image). Draw a new curve (follow beige colour curve shown in image) from 1/2 front sleeve cap-passing over 1.5 cms-to 1/2 back sleeve cap.
- To shape the new sleeve hemline (follow beige colour curve shown in image), draw slant lines.
- Mark midpoints of slant lines & draw perpendicular of 0.5 cm to mark curves (refer image).

Step-3:
- Trace STEP-2 showing beige colour curve at sleeve capline & hemline and sleeve side seam.
- Puff sleeve pattern with added fullness at it's capline and hemline marked in green lines.

I hope this post was helpful to you.
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply. :) :)

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