In this article, I have explained detailed pattern making of a Two piece Katori blouse with sleeve. The Katori blouse is designed based on the natural bust shape of women. The word "Katori" derived from Hindi language means "Cup".
* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!
Fabric used:- For making a Katori blouse with sleeve, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. Since the Front of this Blouse is divided in four parts you can use different combinations of fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.
Complete cutting and stitching of the double katori / two piece katori blouse is shown in the video given below ☺
To make a Katori Blouse with sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve Length - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.
Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart -
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam
FRONT -
* Pattern is shown in 3 STEPS just to explain how the 4 PARTS of Front are separated later in the draft before placement on fabric.
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6.5 cms
0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
7-8 = Join in straight line
7-9 = Down by 2 cms
8-10 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms (or mark neck depth as desired)
0-12 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms (or mark neck depth as desired)
Join 11-12 for Neck curve
4-10-9 for Arm curve
4-6 for Side seam
PART-1: of Katori shape -
PART-1: of Katori shape -
12-13 = 1/16 Round Bust (mark on neck curve)
3-14 = 1/10 Round Chest (mark on line of 3-4)
14-15 = Down by 1/16 Round Chest
11-16 = Shoulder to bust point
15-17 & 15-18 = 1/10 Round Chest
6-19 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 13-17-19 with a curve (refer image)
Join 17-16-18 with a curve (refer image)
PART-2: of Katori shape with Dart -
17-20 = Down by 4 cms (mark on the katori curve)
20-21 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)
1-22 = Up by 2 cms
22-23 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
23-24 = 4 cms (dart width)
24-25 = Midpoint of 23-24
20-26 = Midpoint of 20-21
Join 24-26 & 23-26 to form a dart
PART-3: Basque -
(it is the band which is stitched below the bust)
3-14 = 1/10 Round Chest (mark on line of 3-4)
14-15 = Down by 1/16 Round Chest
11-16 = Shoulder to bust point
15-17 & 15-18 = 1/10 Round Chest
6-19 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 13-17-19 with a curve (refer image)
Join 17-16-18 with a curve (refer image)
PART-2: of Katori shape with Dart -
17-20 = Down by 4 cms (mark on the katori curve)
20-21 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)
1-22 = Up by 2 cms
22-23 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
23-24 = 4 cms (dart width)
24-25 = Midpoint of 23-24
20-26 = Midpoint of 20-21
Join 24-26 & 23-26 to form a dart
PART-3: Basque -
(it is the band which is stitched below the bust)
2-27 = Down by 2 cms
27-28 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2.5 cms
27-29 = 1/10 Round Bust
28-30 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 27-29-30-28-27 to form a Basque
PART-4: Side Piece -
(it is the part which joins Katori & Sleeve)
6-31 = 1/16 Round Bust
31-32 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)
SLEEVE -
27-28 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2.5 cms
27-29 = 1/10 Round Bust
28-30 = 1/16 Round Bust
Join 27-29-30-28-27 to form a Basque
PART-4: Side Piece -
(it is the part which joins Katori & Sleeve)
6-31 = 1/16 Round Bust
31-32 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.
Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.
Placement of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -
Marking of Seam Allowance -
Cutting of FRONT pieces, BACK & SLEEVE drafts of Blouse on fabric -
*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)
I hope this post was helpful to you. If you liked it then Pin it!☺
Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺
If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook.
Happy Sewing!
Happy Sewing!
Stay connected on
**********************
