How to make Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style? F R E E Pattern

Hello everyone,

I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a stylized Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style. This pattern was requested by one of the subscribers.

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless Blouse, Basic Saree Blouse with Sleeve, Double Katori Blouse, One Piece Katori Blouse and also some stylized saree blouse patterns like  Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse, Saree Blouse with Back Smocking, High Neck Saree Blouse, Stand "V" Saree Blouse, Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse, Blouse with Basque (Patti), Boat Neck Saree Blouse and Scallop Shaped Neckline.

You can also visit my new YouTube Channel - "Sudha's Apparel Patterns" for more sewing videos. Please Subscribe the Channel if you like it.☺

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style.

The Blouse pattern has (1) Front bust katori (cup) pieces, (2) Deep neckline and (3) Front Basque. This blouse will have a back opening.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylized Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best-fit undergarment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 

You can wear a padded bra, though it's optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)

1. Length of Back - Measure from back neck bone passing over the center back to 5 to 6 cms above waist line. 

2. Length of front - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line. 

3. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back. 

4. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measuring tape to fall at the back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of the bust. 

5. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust. 

6. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone. 

7. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point.

Steps of drafting:-

BACK -

0-1 = Length of Back + 1 cm 

0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest 

2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms 

3-4 = Join in straight line 

1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms 

Waist Dart - 

1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm 

6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width) 

7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7 

8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust 

Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart (dotted lines for dart marking) 

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm 

10-11 = Join in straight line 

10-12 = Down by 2 cms 

12-13 = Draw Shoulder length as desired (keep as 5 to 6 cms) 

0-14 = Neck depth as desired (as per photo it’s a deep neck). 

Join 13-14 for Neck curve, 12-3 for Arm curve, 12-13 for Shoulder, 3-5 for Side seam 

# Back draft should be placed on a straight grainline of fabric i.e. parallel to selvedge. 

Cut 2 pieces as the back will have opening with hooks at center back.

FRONT -

0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm 

1-2 = 2 cms 

0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest 

3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms 

4-5 = Join in straight line 

2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms 

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm 

4-6 = Join for side seam 

PART-1: 

Neck, Arm curve and Shoulder marking - 

0-7 & 3-8 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm

Join 7-8 in straight line

0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust

0-10 = Neck depth as desired (as per photo the neck depth is at level of round chest). It’s a deep neck. 

9-10 = Join to make a neckline shape as shown.

7-10 = Down by 2 cms

9-11 = Draw Shoulder length as desired (keep as 5 to 6 cms) 

Join 4-11 for Arm curve

PART-2: 

Katori Shape - (cut this part as 2 pieces with diagonal fabric grainline)

10-12 = 1/16 Round Bust (mark on neck curve)

6-13 = 1/16 Round Bust

3-14 = 1/10 Round Chest (mark on line of 3-4)

14-15 = Down by 1/16 Round Chest (marked as dotted line)

15-16 = Mark horizontal 1/10 Round Chest (marked as dotted line)

15-16 & 15-17 = Draw horizontal dotted line passing across on both sides from point 15

Join 12-16-13 to mark Katori curve

9-18 = Mark Shoulder to bust point

Join 16-18-17 with a curve (refer image)

PART-3: 

Basque - (cut this part as 1 piece on horizontal fabric grainline)

2-19 = Down by 2 cms

19-20 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2.5 cms

19-21 = 1/10 Round Bust

20-22 = 1/16 Round Bust

21-22 = Join in a curve (refer image)

PART-4: 

Katori Shape with dart - (cut this part as 2 pieces with diagonal fabric grainline)

1-23 = Go up by 2 cms

23-24 = 1/10 Round bust - 1 cm

24-25 = 4 cms (dart width)

26 = Midpoint of 24-25

26-27 = 1/10 Round bust + 1 cm (dart length)

Join 24-27-25 to form a dart

PART-5: 

Side Panel - (it is a part which is joint to Katori piece)

(cut this part as 2 pieces on straight fabric grainline)

6-28 = 1/16 Round Bust

28-29 = Draw horizontal line (refer image)

Side piece is from 11-9-12-29-28-4 to 11 

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Final Pieces of Designer Blouse with Deep Neckline and Katori style

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Note: This blouse pattern should have lining so using above pattern, cut pieces of lining for front katori, side panels, front basque and back accordingly.

The fabric used:- For making this style of saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc.) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--

1) If using the basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at a right angle.

2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking/placing the draft over it.

3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to the fabric.

*Do try this beautiful pattern and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.

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Happy Sewing!